I did in spring 2018 the AZBDR and a bit more into Utah. Ride Report ‘AZBDR and beyond’. This was the shake down trip for the Trans American Trail ride from east to west following a mix of the Old and New TAT route.
What is the Trans American Trail Old and New you may ask. Here a brief summary:
In 1984, Sam followed his passion for adventure and set out with a goal to chart an epic off-pavement cross-country trail. Sam conceived and organized the route from Tennessee to Oregon and built roll charts and maps to enable Dual Sport motorcycle riders to navigate the route.
By 2006, with the help of other riders the desired coast to coast route was completed by starting at the Atlantic Ocean and continuing to Oregon. Now also with GPX tracks.
Cape Hatteras NC to Port Orford OR is 5174 miles (8326km)
In 2014, new trail sections were added to allow riders to select a route between New York and Los Angeles.
Over the years the route has changed a lot and became more big bike friendly. It was also rerouted north via Idaho instead of Nevada. This I call the New TAT. Note that there are several version of the tracks.
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4th August 2018
All is packed! Today is the day I’m leaving from Europe to fly to Charlotte North Carolina where my bike waits for the TAT trip.
The bike was shipped to the east coast with the help of ADVrider Forum inmates.
After a long flight I’m arriving in Charlotte NC and hope that Allen and his wife are picking me up as promised.
Allen was so kind to allow me to use his address to ship my bike from Arizona to Charlotte and offered generously to stay with them as well.
Pickup? Of course! What was I thinking.
After a warm welcome we drove the short trip to their house and I was united with my bike again.
Allen likes bikes as well!
After a very nice evening with an excellent dinner and chatting with another friend of them (Augie), I quickly fall into a deep sleep.
5th August
It’s hot and humid in NC, but I need to get a few things done before the trip can start. Allen and his wife are extremely helpful and I’m able to organize all what I need thanks to their help.
The bike gets the final touch by installing a Volt/Temperature Indicator and topping up the oil. And so is the day gone by very quickly.
Sorry guys, no pics from this day.
The plan is to ride to the outer banks to kind of the starting point of the TAT. I decided not to go all the way to Cape Hatteras. Instead I want to ‘show’ the bike the ocean on the Emerald Isle.
6th August – Day 1
After a quick breakfast with coffee it is finally time to get going.
For me it is more about the coast to coast experience.
Good plan, but things are not going as planned. This day the beach access is closed.
So from now on it is the TAT ride.
It starts very boring but I’m still excited that I can finally do this trip.
The evening is faster approaching than expected and is going to be my first camp night.
The campground I found is a remote and small place in the middle of farm land. The ‘road’ to the campground was even marked with a no trespassing sign.
Nevertheless, the place has electrical power and showers. Those are needed as it is still hot and humid.
Small dinner with chips and beer.
The route of day 1:
7th August – Day 2
The next morning shows how high the humidity level is. (it was already warm.)
Today is the first full day on the trail.
Route of the day:
The route lead through mostly farmland and all on pavement. Even this is not what I have expected of the TAT (all paved) it still is a very nice ride through the country. Really pretty.
After some search for a campground east of Lenoir I gave up and continued for some more time and found a place to stay just west of the town at the steel river.
The campground just had a flood a few days ago but the spot I pitched my tent was try.
8th August -Day 3
This morning all is wet and the sky is covered with clouds. So I have to pack the wet tent and hope that the sun comes out later on today.
The track lead up into the mountains and finally I’m on dirt road.
On the other side of the mountain riding towards Little Switzerland, looking back.
Initially I wanted to have a rest in Little Switzerland but despite the fact that it is looking nice, there are far too many tourist for me. So I dry my tent somewhere along the road on a parking lot during a short break.
The landscape is very pretty but for the rest of the day I’m again on pavement.
As I’m riding towards Waynesville the weather is getting worse. More and more dark clouds are coming and now and then are a few showers passing through.
I made it into town and the sky opens. So no camping tonight. I found a Motel which was newly renovated for a good price.
As the rain made a short pause I went for a dinner and got soaked on the way back. Still, I had a good night sleep and was looking forward to the next day.
9th August – Day 4
Today is a nice day and the route leads into the smoky mountains.
As I gain some altitude the road runs thru some fog and I question my decision to do a loop in the smoky mountains.
Soon the pavement ends and I’m again on some dirt road.
Shortly after the turnaround point on the loop road, a black bear cup runs just in front of me across the road.
He is so close that I do not even try to stop and give space for the potential Mother crossing.
The few times the trees allow a view, it is fantastic.
Later the road runs along a small river.
Next highlight is Cades Cove. Only the many tourists are disturbing the beauty.
The rule that you are not allowed to stop on the road (plenty of pull offs) is causing the people to drive so slow that even in the first gear and idle throttle my bike is too fast.
I know this looks different but this was the only time there have been no cars on the road for a few seconds.
I’m really happy to reach the shortcut to the Tail of the Dragon.
After refueling and a quick tour thru the souvenir shop the rain has passed thru and I’m glad to leave such a touristic place.
Soon the route follows the Cherohala Skyway towards Tellico Plains.
The Clouds are getting very dark and I pass on the last section of dirt road through the woods.
Nevertheless the rain hits hard soon after.
For the night I pitch my tent at Hunts Lodge. I can highly recommend this place. Their slogan is from bikers for bikers. What does that mean you might ask? They even have a drying cabinet for motorcycle boots!
And all for a very good rate. You can also rent a cabin if you like. The weather was a bit better in the evening and I drove to a restaurant nearby for some beer and dinner.
10th August – Day 5
Today I have planned to do an easy day with some TLC for the bike and maybe a new front tire. Not immediately needed but would be nice to have.
So I slept in and listened to the rain all morning. As soon as the weather turned to be a bit better (no rain) I rode back to the point where I left the trail due to the rain yesterday.
It is a nice section through the woods without any real problem. Initially I was a bit concerned that the road might be difficult with all the rain, but shortly after hitting dirt I came to a Harley with 2up standing sideways in a uphill section in the opposite direction.
A quick chat showed that they wanted to turn around because this was the hardest section (a bit slippery). The chat was good for me to assure that there will be no problem and good for them that they only have maybe 1 more mile to the pavement.
After return to Tellico Plains I went for the hunt for a front tire. Unfortunately no luck. The rest of the day was filled with eating and taking care about some small things on the bike.
The clutch switch was only making sometimes contact and so the starter was not engaged every time I pressed the button. After a proper cleaning all was good again.
11th August – Day 6
The TAT runs directly by the lodge and after backing up the wet tent (it rained all night) I start right away into the woods.
With all that rain the first real water crossing was too deep for scouting it out so I took a picture and got going.
It didn’t look difficult but with my inexperience I stalled the engine and had to but my foot down.
The water was so deep that even my Gore-Tex motocross boots got filled with water from the top.
After this mistake I was even more careful and all the following water crossings have been no problem.
The landscape was very nice but a bit boring.
As the day progressed the weather became a lot better. I used the parking lot of a church to dry my belongings and had a rest.
With the sun I enjoyed the ride very much.
I have sourced a campground on the net and arrived early. A guy was mowing the gras and waved, so I parked and waited for him after checking the reception where I found nobody.
The time passed by and the guy was driving the lawnmower somewhere on the property. After waiting for more than 1 hour I became a bit anxious. As a car was pulling up to a garage nearby I went to ask them If they know anything.
It turned out that they are the kids of the owners and where so kind to call them. Even the place had a nice location I was explained that there is only a bit toilet in a tent on the middle of the gras field and it costs 40$.
Because it was still not very late I moved on from this overprized underserviced place.
The next proper campground I found at the Tim’s Ford State Park where I arrived late. The ranger station was no longer occupied but the people have been very nice and wanted to help. One even offered that I could pitch my tent on his spot next to his caravan in the case there is no spot open. Finally I found the ranger and got my own spot. Nevertheless I stopped again at this guy’s place to thank again for the offer and got surprised again. After me asking if he would know where I could by a beer he insisted to organize me a beer. No protest on my side being helped.
After setting up my tent in the dark and talking a bit to my neighbors he showed up with his family and some beers which he had to get from a bar! Unbelievable to see so much kindness. We had a nice chat and I fell asleep very quickly this night.
The picture from my spot is from next morning.
12th August – Day 7
Despite the rain during the night the weather is wonderful and the ride through the hilly countryside is a real joy.
It is still morning when arriving in Lynchburg, home of Jack Daniels.
Seems to be a very touristic place, but so early in the day I do not want to take a tour anyway.
Breakfast is what I have in mind and so I hit the city center.
It was a plan, as it turns out not a good one. All shops are closed. Sunday.
So a snack has to be enough and I hit the trail again.
Soon I hit my first road closed sign. Hmm, the sign is sitting on the side of the road, checking the GPS reveals that there is a road around close by but the closed road is only a short section.
So I give it a try and there was nothing else than nice landscape.
In Collingwood I meet the first other TAT riders and unlike me, they know where they want to stay this night.
As Josh and Scott want to camp as well, I’m going to join them.
13th August – Day 8
Because Josh and Scott are riding big bikes I want to go solo but we stay in touch during the coming days and meet again.
Shortly after I left the campground I hit the old blocked bridge I have seen on the videos when preparing the trip. After checking out the options I decided not to go over the bridge (not alone). The route the guys on the videos are taking underneath the bridge is definitely not possible due to the high water level.
Riding down the river bank for a short distance to an easy water crossing is the solution and no problem. For safety I unloaded the bike, just in case I drop it but all goes well.
The following roads are easy.
Later during the day it started to rain and the road becomes slippery. With the mounted D606 tire it was fun to blast down the road.
I meet Josh and Scott again, sadly Josh had a small crash and hurt his ankle. He heads to a doctor to check it out.
Scott and I are looking for a campground and in the evening Josh is back with medium good news. He still can ride but the ankle is swollen. A few beers make it easier and we have a good night at the Enid Lake.
14th August – Day 9
Today I’m going to leave Mississippi and arrive in Arkansas.
The first miles are about the same as yesterday just without the rain.
Along the road guys are fishing and looking busy after I asked if I can take a picture.
Crossing into Arkansas.
In West Helena I refuel the bike and myself. The town is not feeling very safe and so I’m happy to be here only during the day.
Shortly I arrive at Heidelberger and meet Josh and Scott again as well as two other TAT riders from Florida.
A nice chat with Percy the Legend which welcomes the riders and the obligatory sign in the TAT book with a picture taken I hit the road.
The road is easy and fast until some water puddles are slowing me down.
The river crossing should go across the bridge in the background but that road is closed since a long time. Signs are warning of big fines if not obeyed.
One of the examples that the TAT route is not fully possible to follow.
In Beebe I see a sign for special rates at a motel. It is not late but I cannot find anything close by on the GPS so I stop for the night.
The opportunity to search for a front tire is taken and I find one NE of Beebe. I will go tomorrow to get it installed.
15th August – Day 10
In the morning I ride to Searcy. There is a huge motorcycle shop which represents many brands.
Replacing the tire takes some time and it is past 10am before I hit the trail again.
Soon the rain sets in hard and I take a nice lunch break in the hope that the weather is getting better. No luck with that, but I find a cheap motel a bit south and call it the day.
That’s like heaving a rest day.
16th August – Day 11
The following morning the weather is good and I’m heading back north to join the trail again.
The ride goes through a lot of woods, farmland, passes old abandoned buildings and into the Ozark NF.
As I approach the famous Oark Cafe, there are a lot old cars to the right sitting in the field.
Perfect timing to be at the Oark Cafe at Lunchtime. Very interesting place with good burger and nice people.
Before I leave I have to add a sticker to the many already there.
Than the route runs further through the hills and down the famous Warloop Road. The road was just a rough downhill track through the woods. No big deal but still too steep to stop for a picture.
More hills and farmland.
In Lincoln I looked for some supplies and a campground. It seems to get more difficult to find one the further West I come. Someone sends me north and there is one next to the Cincinnati creek.
Many mobile homes and during the night even a visit of the sheriff.
Still a descent night sleep and the people have been definitely interesting.
17th August – Day 12
Early start today. A quick ride back south to join the TAT.
The weather looks not good in the direction I should go but it is a wonderful atmosphere with the dark clouds and still some sun.
At the turn where the TAT track turns NW just before Christie it is clear that if I follow the trail it will be a rain disaster. So my first off the TAT routing. I decide to head along the separation line of the storm and the more or less clear sky.
This leads me to Tahlequah, where the rain catches me.
I wait for a break in the rain and head further west to Tulsa where the weather is great again. I stop to by myself a new rear tire. Don’t need it now but after the fairly long search for my front tire I thought I take the opportunity of a Procycle shop.
Than I’m heading straight north on the Hwy to join back the TAT just past Bartlesville turning west again. As more north I get the weather is not so great but no rain.
As I get further west the trees are getting less present and the weather is getting better.
Really better!
The evening is pleasant and I stay at the Bear Creek Cove campground. Till late in the evening I’m alone except the host, but then a fully loaded car shows up.
I fear the worst but for no reason. The only downside of the campground is the Spider ‘infested’ restroom, but the view makes up for it.
18th August – Day 13
The day starts with perfect sunshine. Still I’m concerned about the famous Oklahoma mud after all the rain I have seen yesterday.
Many straight lines but not as flat as I have anticipated.
Old and new technology are seen everywhere.
Farmland over Farmland, here they have definitely a lot of it.
A typical Crossroad on the TAT, 20 feet of tar.
Seems to be an abandon Farmhouse.
And more Farmland.
An than there it is, the famous and notorious Oklahoma mud. Not much of it but it gives me an idea what it is like and I’m even more happy that I skipped the rainy section the previous day.
There are really long Straights in Oklahoma.
Approaching Liberal.
I know, you can’t see it. As I arrive in Liberal after a nearly 300 mile ride the weather starts to change. I just pitched the tent as the rain starts. Nothing dramatic yet.
During the night it pours down like crazy. I even pack my stuff in the tent to be ready to evacuate if needed. A quick peek outside shows that it was a wise decision to set up the tent on a slightly higher ground as all around is flooded. My little island is just high enough and the tent does a good job. I stay try and sleep ok after the rain becomes less intense.
19th August – Day 14
In the morning nothing shows that it was raining so hard during the night.
Although it doesn’t show on the pictures the weather was god through the morning.
Look a hill! Ok, kind of.
A few barns along the trail.
Yes, Oklahoma is flat, I get it. This is boring and exciting for me at the same time. You know, we do not have so much flat land in Austria.
A ‘small’ water pump. 2x V8 engines with nearly no muffler and a bit leaking. This we would also not have in Austria, at least not for long, the police would not like it.
Another TAT crossing. No tar, and no this time the route didn’t go straight.
Definitely abandoned farmhouse and a truck.
I have read about this and think it’s great that people offer such things along the TAT. But it was just past lunchtime so I continued.
Despite the rain of last night it was not muddy at all, but you can see that this could be different.
The first Tornado shelter I saw in my life. This was in the middle of nowhere. I haven’t seen a vehicle nor a person for a long time.
Slowly the landscape is changing as I approach New Mexico.
Yes, this would be the trail. No, this was not due the rain, it seems that some farmer thought they need to water their field, maybe a bit much.
A quick check of the NAV showed that there are plenty of other farm roads running parallel to this one.
It’s difficult to see, but there in the valley is a farmhouse where the route runs through the gate than between the house and the barn and leaving again through a second gate.
New Mexico.
During the TAT preparation I saw some videos and read about this climb from New Mexico up to Colorado. Looks more difficult than it is but it was still a highlight of the day.
After a short climb the road is on a high elevated area running towards Trinidad.
The campground for the night with a view over the lake.
Not the best campground I have seen on the trip. Especially as you have to pay park entrance fee, camping fee and then you have no water, a pit toilet, no electricity no fire allowed.
The place got full during the evening and it also was a lot cooler during the night than up to now.
20th August – Day 15
Initially I had planned to do a rest day, but Trinidad had a feeling of a tourist trap to me. All was expensive and people not very friendly. So I packed up and was on the road at 9am.
At the beginning the land was a bit boring, still nice.
In the distance there was a huge train. Thankfully it was not blocking the railroad crossing I had to take.
After crossing the train and the Hwy the route leads up the Gracia Canyon. There are some remaining’s where I think they produced charcoal.
The route runs through the mountains. Looks like a prefect day.
San Isabel NF is particular nice. That’s the kind of trail I like. The Aspen are also nice.
The GPS is not very accurate and I have to alter the route a little. It runs through this gate and there on the post it says ‘no motor vehicles’.
At one stage there was a young brown bear running across the road, but so fast that there is no chance to take a picture. On the other side it is good that there are no others are coming.
Leaving the mountains.
Approaching Westcliff.
It’s 4.30pm and I check if it makes sense to continue for some more time, but then I figured here is a campground, shops and restaurants.
So I stay and relax a bit. Just buying a beer was difficult. I didn’t take my driver’s license with me and the lady in the store did not want to sell me one without. She insisted that she has to enter the data in their system. ? Really?! I thought that I’m in the US and not in a country where everything is watched. No, thanks!
Despite that unpleasant experience it was a nice evening and relaxing. :photog So tomorrow can come!
21st August – Day 16
The night was cool and even when I left at 9.30 am the temp where still low. First the road runs through farm roads and then into the woods and up the mountains.
High elevated farmland.
In Salida I refueled the bike and it starts to drizzle. Not too bad and I’m eager to leave this town.
Too many Hipster and safe the world people for me.
Up towards Marshall Pass.
On the other side of Marshall Pass the weather looks even worse.
Another small Pass (Black Sage Pass) just past Tomichi Gas Station.
The Crossing of the 114 seems to be a big problem for many TAT riders and they end up on private land.
This applies to Kevin’s and Sam’s route. It is very simple, just stay for about 1,5miles on the 114 and do not enter the Farm entrance. Just watch out for the overhead farm sign.
Then turn on the County Road NN14. Voila, no problems.
Interesting landscape, and clouds.
There seem to be no hunters.
In the mountains I met a guy with a bicycle pumping up the tire. So I stop and ask if he needs any help.
No, he just increases the pressure for the coming section. He was already several days in the mountains and obviously a minimalistic traveler. No tent no bags just a small backpack.
No fear of bears? I ask and he just replies no, never had a problem so far.
Towards Lake City there are many campgrounds along the river. Nice location but most of them are empty. I have no supplies so I need to go to town anyway and stay there.
My camp spot for the coming nights. The Elkhorn Resort.
The hosts are very nice and for the moderate fee you are not only getting a very clean place, no, you also have towels and breakfast coffee included.
Sometimes they even throw a barbecue for their guests and I’m lucky it happens tonight.
The plan is to stay here for 2 nights and do some riding around the area. The forecast for tomorrow is not good and I just hope for the best.
I’m swapping out the front gear to a 14 teeth for some red routes (Alpine Trail, not the Alpine loop) from Kevin’s map. (red means difficult)
Nice chatting with the other guests and free dinner. What can you more ask for. Well maybe please no visit from the bears. The hosts mentioned they are regularly coming here.
22nd August – Day 17
The morning starts better than expected and I have planned to do the Alpine Trail. It Is marked as difficult so I unload my bike except spares and tools and head north.
First the track follows the main road.
22nd August – Day 17
The morning starts better than expected and I have planned to do the Alpine Trail. It Is marked as difficult so I unload my bike except spares and tools and head north.
First the track follows the main road.
Than it goes up the mountain on a well maintained gravel road.
Soon I arrived at a parking lot where the trail starts. It is a single trail flowing nicely along the valley.
In the beginning it is good and I’m not concerned at all, but that shall change quickly.
The trail is getting rougher and steeper until I came to a step in the trail which was just too high for me and I got stuck.
I rethink my options. Going back I though was not one of it as turning around would be difficult and I have passed already difficult places. After several attempts to get over the step I finally was clever enough to build a little ramp and then it was no problem. But more of steep and loose sections where following.
The pictures are not doing any justice but man I was sweating while struggling forward. Past this section I looked on the GPS to see if there was a way out as I realized this was more than I can chew.
The next road exiting the woods was on the other side of the hillside and going down in Zig Zag single trail through steep aspen woods.
This Pic is not the actual place but it looked similar, just even steeper.
I basically walked the bike down. If I drop the bike here it will stay. No chance to recover it by myself.
When I made it without any incident to the road I was very much relieved. The trail would go on the other side up the mountain again. Even that I have to go a long way north before I can turn west to Montrose is not making me rethink my decision to take this exit option.
In Montrose I refuel the bike and have a bite to eat before riding south to Ouray.
It is starting to rain again and my attempt to go over Imogene Pass to Telluride is cancelled after talking to a couple with their Jeep.
They just came down and said that there have bikes slipped off the road and they have used their winch on time themselves.
So I listen to them and head back towards the campground. At the entrance to the Engineer Pass are construction worker busy. They suggest to go via Corkscrew Pass back to Lake City and as I want to come back tomorrow up the Engineer Pass anyway I follow their advice.
The Mountain around the Corkscrew Pass are very colorful and despite the rain still an experience. Note to myself I have to come back when the weather is better.
The higher I get, the closer I get to the clouds.
At this elevation my trusted Bike is struggling. Next is California Pass. Not much to see with all the fog.
Heading towards Animas Forks the weather improves and there is even a bit of sunshine.
From Animas Forks it goes to Cinnamon Pass before a long valley heads to Lake City.
What a day! A lesson was learned to be more cautious with route selection and I’m looking forward to come back some time to see this area again. This is a very interesting place and even I’m coming from the mountains as well, here they are different and lots of fun. I would stay longer if the forecast didn’t say rain for the next week after a good day tomorrow.
My goal is the TAT so I will continue tomorrow on the route and hope for the best.
23rd August – Day 18
The forecast was correct and the weather is good.
Today’s plan: Engineer Pass, Black Bear Pass, take a look at Imogene Pass and then as far west as I get.
The start was brilliant. Going through the valley towards engineer pass. Is still early but there are already bikes, ATVs and Jeeps on the road.
Up the mountain is a good road and offers a great view.
Nice weather but cold. Well I shouldn’t be surprised at this altitude.
On the other side of engineer pass is a short downhill passage east before the road turns west again.
At the ‘basin’ are many tracks and I take for a short distance the wrong one. Thanks to the large GPS screen it is noticed quickly.
From there the road becomes more rocky. All is downhill so I just need to be careful not to slip.
Traffic increases and some people are just nuts. Full throttle around the corner on the wrong side of the road and then they are surprised that I’m there.
I had a few near misses due to these nice people. This is the downside of such a great place, too many people want be there.
You can see remaining’s of old mines all over the place in these mountains.
It is impressive what the old-timers have achieved.
The valley is getting narrow before reaching the Hwy and there are step drop-offs.
I’m following the Hwy towards Silverton which runs nicely up the valley passing by the turnoff to Corkscrew pass from yesterday.
The entrance to the Black Bear pass is coming quickly and I almost missed it. First the road is easy, but it turns quickly to a steep and rocky track.
The climb is fairly short but intense. The view on the other side spectacular.
There are several tracks down the mountain and some are extremely steep. In the distance you can see Telluride.
Before I make it to town, I have to pass the famous turn above the waterfall. I watched videos and looked at pictures of this, in reality it is far more scary.
How steep it is you can maybe imagine by looking at the two hikers coming up the road. They are at the point where the road turns to the right looking down. On the left is the waterfall which of course you cannot see.
Looking back up the mountain shows the turn and the waterfall. From this view the track doesn’t look so bad but believe me it is. By the way you are only allowed to come down here and not going up. Past the scary spot the road just goes zig zag down to Telluride.
In Telluride the road to Imogenes pass is starting and I wanted to see what it looks like, although I will only go up to the summit and come down again.
This couple have been scared of the road and decided to turn around. At this spot! People further up shouted that up there is a nice bay where turning is very easy, but they did not hear anything. It was quit scary to watch what they did.
In the distance is the mine visible. (where the river comes down)
And I made it to the top without any problems.
Going back down passing the mine again.
In Telluride I refueled the bike. The place is very touristic and I’m glad that I had out to Lizard Head pass.
The following road is running through the woods and no problem but also not very impressive. Well that would be difficult after the passes I have seen already today.
So I just ride until I arrive at the Groundhog Lake late afternoon. A basic campground next to it will be the residence for the night.
Really nice, just the wasps are annoying. The place had a few campers sitting there but most of the evening I just saw people passing through the campground on their way to the lake. Why thy are driving back and forth through I have no Idea as there is a road directly to the lake outside of the campground.
A couple of beers from the campground store are completing my evening. No, the pic was not taken afterwards. :rofl
24th August – Day 19
Today’s destination is 3 Steps Hideaway. I actually though that I can reach this yesterday, but there was no way this would have worked.
As now it should be no problem to do the roughly 110 miles.
The road is well graded and a high pace is easy.
After crossing the Dolores River the route is more or less along farm roads. Just before reaching my destination I have the idea to ride in from the backside.
Checking the GPS shows a road I could take. As in reality the road is gated after maybe a mile I have to turn around back to the main road.
To make things worse I have a flat on the rear, 3 miles before I’m going to change the tire anyway. You maybe have noticed that I carry a spare tire.
So here I am. It’s hot, and I say to myself ‘was this really necessary?’ Let’s rethink the options, I don’t want to do the work twice, maybe the flat is not that bad and I can limb the 3 miles by pumping up the tire a few times.
Sounds like a great idea. Compressor unpacked and finally some luck, the tire holds pressure.
After a mile I have to redo it. Not so bad I think, but then I run out of luck at after the next mile. 1 mile before the ‘finish line’ the fuse of the power socket is blown. So unpack the bike, remove the side panels and the seat to gain access to the fuse. Thankfully I have brought a spare one. Pump up the tire again and stick all my belongings loosely on the bike to ride slowly the last mile.
Arrived in 3 Steps Hideaway!
This place is amazing and Scott the owner has a shop and I can use it to replace the tire. Shi… the tube is punctured several times due to me continue riding. No problem Scott says, here is a new one.
I’m so focused to take care of my bike that I forgot to ask for dinner arrangements which normally have to be pre-booked.
But July and Scott have taken care of me. It’s just a great place with great people, highly recommend a visit.
The evening is filled with lots of talking and relaxing with a few drinks.
25th August – Day 20
Today is a planned short day. Another guest at 3 Steps Hideaway is going on a ride with me which was suggested by Scott. He has several routes planned and we are doing the Dolores River Loop.
This is not part of the TAT but because I only want to go to Moab today I take this little side trip.
The route is a good mixture with fast sections, rocky sections and also some light mud.
The ride is fun and we are back shortly after lunchtime, just before a light rain showers are passing through.
We have a drink while chatting until the rain is gone and I’m heading out to the La Sal Mountain.
All is dry and there is for a short time a large dust devil to be seen.
Up in the mountains you feel quickly remote.
I’m crossing the mountains and enjoy the slightly lower temperatures up there.
Down there is the destination for today. (Moab)
I’m passing by the Slick Rock Area where I want to go tomorrow.
In Moab I’m staying at the ‘Up the Creek’ Campground which I know already from my last trip to here.
It is located directly in town and ideal to walk to shops and restaurants.
Dinner and a few drinks are found in the Moab Brewery for tonight.
26th August – Day 21
4:30 in the morning and I’m already up. I want to go to the Delicate Arch to see the Sunrise. So do others.
After a quite exhausting hike through the night I arrived at the Arch where others are already there. The moon is large in the night sky.
The sun comes up but it is not the right time of the year and this is as much sun as will be on the Arch.
The Arch is only part of an interesting rock formation .
Walking back towards to the parking lot reveals the hiking route had some nice drop-offs. Hmm the parking lot is far away!
Returning to Moab to change cloths. It is already warm but I want to do the practice loop of the Slick Rock.
As I get there, the parking lot is nearly empty and I’m a bit nervous because I was reading so many different things about this trail. Two mountain biker are just returning but they do not stop.
Anyway, here I am and off I go!
The Practice loop was no problem but still fun do to. Because I have been warned to do the full trail with the DR I’m not doing that.
Instead I want to do the easy route of the TAT along the Long Canyon Road up to the Plateau and then south to the overlooks of the Canyon Lands NP.
On the way are some petroglyphs.
Then into the Long Canyon Road and up the side of the canyon.
View down to the White Rim Trail.
After taking in all the nice view from the top I’ going to ride down the Shafer Trail and than out to Moab via the Potash Road.
There are also interesting rock formations along the way back to moab.
The day is completed with a burger (good) and a Margarita (not that great) which has to be accompanied by a beer!
Life is good!
27th August – Day 22
First thing after an easy start in the morning is to go to the tourist information to find out about some trails.
I asked for the hike to the Corona Arch which had been recommended to me before. With the information and some leaflets in hand I had off to the trail head.
From the parking lot the hiking trail crosses the railway and goes up to the plateau.
From there it is an easy hike. The trail follows the valley and at this point is a metal safety rope leading around the corner. Not really needed here.
Than a short leader for getting easy up this rock.
From there the trail runs more or less on the same level to the Arch. It is a fairly large Arch. At the tourist information they told the story that some years ago there has a pilot flying his small plane through.
Nice to see this without the masses of tourists like in the Arches NP. (This is not inside the park)
Heading back to the parking lot.
Yesterday I saw the entry point to the Poison Spider Trail. The tourist information said that it is a fairly long but not too difficult. Quote: A standard Jeep can do it. Hm if a standard Jeep can do it I should be able as well.
It begins rough but manageable but very quickly it becomes much more difficult. At the ‘Waterfall Obstacle’ I have to admit that it is not worth to risk the bike. There are very high steps which are definitely not passable by a factory Jeep. There is a permanent hookup for the winch. Sorry no pics.
Anyway, I turn around and head back to town to sort a few equipment issues and relax for the rest o the day. It is already very warm and feel not too bad to have kind of a rest day.
28th August – Day 23
When I was in Moab last time I did the section out of town to Green River. This part was sandy and not appealing at all, so I skip it this time.
Unlike this, was the section through Black Dragon Canyon very nice and I’m doing it again. Same as last time, no problem.
As I run both versions of the TAT simultaneously on my GPS, I have to make the decision to go the Old route via Nevada or turning North on the New Route which runs through Idaho.
Nevada it is.
The Old route runs on the Eagle Canyon Road which offers a rough terrain but beautiful views. This is the section where you ride below the Interstate Bridges.
Super! I like it!
I do not understand why Sam has taken this out of his TAT route.
Where the trail leaves the canyon I check the tire pressure as it seems to be low. The terrain was very rocky so I was not surprised that I had to top it up. Than going up to the Hwy.
Where the tire went fully flat and I had to fix it next to the highway.
Because most of Sam’s old route runs along the interstate 70 so I go this time with GPS Kevin’s route.
After refueling in the small town of Emery the road leads into a valley which looks like a dead end, but on the end it climbs up to a plateau where it is running or a long time.
Even on this high elevation it is still possible to go higher. The trail varies a lot in condition. And there are really nice views.
The land is used for grazing. I see many new and old caravans and Cowboys on horses or motorbikes.
There are also some small water crossings and nice little valleys like this one.
A view miles before Richfield was a forest fire not too long ago. It is the first time I see something like this that close and it is interesting how the transition from burned to nothing happens.
Down there is the destination for today, Richfield.
I find a KOA and the people are very kind. It was a long day and the last stretch was a bit boring although all nice landscape. I could have shorten it by using the Hwy for the last bit, but I want to do the TAT is much as possible. No excuses! The day is concluded with a steak and a few drinks after laundry is done.
29th August – Day 24
It’s going to be a long, remote day. I’m looking forward to it.
The backcountry of Richfield seems to be ATV land. The roads are covered with rough gravel.
Ans soon the TAT leads into a section where the track is getting smaller and runs through bushland.
But not for long and it becomes open land just past Kanosh where I refueled the bike and checked tire pressure.
Kanosh was a very small town and I feel immediately remote afterwards.
In the distance is the Sevier Lake.
Or more what is left of it….. nothing!
I’m starting to pay attention how far I have been riding since I have seen a car, building or any other signs of civilization. There are some small buildings next to the lake but nobody around.
After the short side trip to the lake the road looks the same as before.
You see the bright Rock in the distance?
I want to refuel in Baker, but about a mile before I reach the gas station I have again a flat at the front. Not a big deal and even it is hot it works quit well.
Later at the gas station, which is a non-occupied one, the LCD screen is not working correctly. Hmm, I need fuel, let’s see if it takes my CC.
I can’t see if it is accepting it, but as the pump starts working I think it is ok. Or maybe not. The pump is running very slow, but I get fuel and that’s what matters. Although I do not know how much I’m going to be charged as the volume numbers never went to zero and is sitting at a ridiculous number which I could never fit in my tank.
That’s how it is looking when you are close by. The TAT runs just next to it.
From here it is not far to the Nevada State Line.
After refueling I’m ready for a soft drink and find that at the next grocery store. There, I ask if they would know whom to contact for the issue with the pump. No, don’t know.
Having my drink outside while chatting to another biker who wants to stay in the Great Basin NP. There is no waste bin, so I walk back into the store and ask for it. Now it is getting funny.
They have spoken to the fuel station owner and he will come later today to see what the problem is and I can wait for him. So when will he come? No idea was the answer. My willingness to wait is close to zero as before they didn’t want to help (in fact said the do not know anything and then it turns out that they know the owner) and now I shall wait for an unknown timespan. No thanks I’m off.
The TAT runs to the south and then along the bottom of the Great Basin NP to the west.
Farm roads, not too often used. And after maybe half an hour I have another flat on the front.
Hmm not too good. I have a spare tube and put it in while I repair the other one.
The area is not really farmland anymore. The trail is disappearing and at one stage I’m just following the arrow on my GPS.
There are tire marks between the trees but I’m getting worried if I’m still on the right path.
After a stretch of uncertainty, I came on to more farmland and some signs of civilization.
Definitely not in use anymore.
It’s getting late and it is clear that I have no chance to reach the next town.
Just passed the highway is the Patterson Pass campground and I’m very happy about it. There is only one other tent, without anyone there and is a very quiet evening. Very nice after such an exhausting day
And the sky is playing big cinema!
I’m loving it! Just WOW!
30th August – Day 25
I’m awake shortly after sunrise and with a small breakfast and no coffee, due to lack of water, I have a minimalistic start today.
The Patterson Pass is an easy gravel road and then the TAT follows he valley north through grazing land.
The road down the mountain towards Lund is more the style I was expecting.
Somewhere down there, more and more cows are coming up the mountain. First I didn’t realize it and thought that they are just grazing and maybe walk to a water hole. But as I come around a corner there is a solid block mad of cattle. I switch off the engine and slowly walk the bike through all those cows. Around the next corner are the cowboys which are driving them up the road.
With some guilt feeling I apologize for pushing my way through the herd but they are very nice and have no problem with that. They ask me about my travel and give me the impression they would like to do this too. We are chatting for a while before I make my final miles out of the canyon to Lund.
Lund is a small town where should be a gas station which I couldn’t find. While stopping on the roadside and looking on the GPS for the gas station, a guy stops in the middle of the road and ask if help is needed.
He points me out of town where is a Truck stop. It’s hot and after refueling I treat myself with a late breakfast before heading out NW.
The Humboldt NF is and easy ride with beautiful views.
Haven’t seen a gate for a while.
In the middle of nowhere is an information sign placed at a junction of the historic Lincoln Highway. Below is a link to a homepage with more information about:
I take a break and read about this first transcontinental road reaching from New York to San Francisco.
It is a not anymore often used road and shortly after my break I pay the price and have another flat on the front.
Slowly this becomes annoying and I hope to get a replacement tube in once I reach Eureka.
But that seems to be very far away.
As I reached Eureka, I go on a hunt for a replacement tube without any luck. At the same time I try to find the supermarket and a place to stay. Last named is solved as I ask a sheriff and she points me to the city park where I pitch the tent for the night. It is ‘fully’ equipped with toilet and electrical power for free. The only downside is that in the night the sprinkler starts working.
After I found the Supermarket just out of town and did some supply shopping, I have dinner at the Owl Club Bar.
31st August – Day 26
As my search for a new tube was unsuccessful, I have been told that in Battle Mountain is a Motorcycle shop.
So I start with good hopes into the day.
The ride is nice, great temperature and strange road signs.
Crossroads in the middle of nowhere.
Thanks to GPS no problem.
I cannot get enough of these wide open views. And the road running through the valleys.
Until, …. guess…. another flat.
Slowly I get concerned and glad at the same time that Battle Mountain is not too far away.
(still too far to walk!)
Great to ride on this roads. Sometimes in a valley and then up the hills.
Getting closer to the place of my desire for the day to get me tubes.
In the distance is Battle Mountain. Since the last flat I had another one and I shall have one more before reaching town.
Finally in town, I stopped at the first gas station to ask for the motorcycle shop. Nope, none here was the answer. But there is a tire shop down the street, maybe they can help. So I ride there with little hope. After a small resentment to help in the beginning the people where very friendly and helpful although the outcome was that I had to ride all the way (50 miles one way) to Winnemucca.
I pace myself to babysit the tube, by riding as slow as possible and still make it to the shop before they close. Arrived in time without any issue and bought 2 new tubes.
Initially I wanted to stay in town but here my cell phone provider has no service. Normally this would be of course no problem, but I have to renew my cellphone plan. So I ride all the way back to Battle Mountain as I know there is reception. Did this time the ride on normal Hwy speed and still all good.
Sorted out my phone and looking for a motel, but they are all out of my budget and so I continue on the TAT in the hope to find a campground.
The route leads through this high and very dry grass. I’m really concerned that the hot exhaust could cause a fire.
Thankfully nothing happened, except…. guess…. a flat.
Here in the middle of all the high grass I do not want to change the tube so I refill and continue, and refill, …., …. until I’m out of the grass.
By this time it is almost dark and I have to pitch my tent next to the road. Replaced my tube with a new one, had my dinner and it was pitch black. So went to bed while listening to the coyotes howling.
1st September – Day 27
Today I had an early start, more or less just after sunrise.
And the old tube was placed on the bike to be dumped at the first opportunity!
Where are trees is usually a Farmhouse. Unfortunately the road ends at this ditch. Nothing to either side.
I know it doesn’t look so deep but it was.
But all went good and I continued on the other side passing by a big Mine.
There was a fire all over the place not too long ago. Burned area all the way to the horizon.
Beautiful passes and remote roads.
At one stage I went with gpsKevin’s route towards Fields Station due to fuel requirements.
Fields Station is smaller than expected, but very friendly staff.
Had a nice chat with other riders during lunchbreak.
And of course feed the bike with some expensive fuel!
Shortly after Fields Station the route turns south through a valley and the track has deep silt puddles.
I met 2 other ADV rider which were on the TAT from Oregon and 2 guys on bicycles. Man that is hard, riding with a bicycle through this environment at this temperatures.
They recommended the Virgin Valley Campground which is on Sam’s old Track. His route runs south of Fields Station, so I decided to make a short cut south to join Sam’s route.
The place is busy but again very nice people. Due to the extra miles it was in question to make it to the next fuel stop the following day. But a fellow camper was willing to give me some fuel to top up the bike. A couple of beers later I had fuel and was again not allowed to pay.
I got the last shaded spot. 😉
More chat with people and a hot shower with the thermal water at the campground.
2nd September – Day 28
The plan for today is first to follow Sam’s route and then turn south on gpsKevin’s route to refill gas in Cedarville before riding north and entering Oregon for good.
The campground is a popular base for opal fans as there are many mines nearby. The TAT runs by some of the mines where you can also go digging if you like.
There is an old abandoned homestead near the mines. And then the route leads up the mountains. The road is getting rockier but manageable.
Riding through the Sheldon National Antelope Refuge and looking down into the valley. On my GPS are many lakes shown in this valley and they might have been there, but now all is dry.
It is not only dry, the track is nearly vanishing.
Only to come back with deep silt. Here is the spot of my only real crash on the entire trip.
Thankfully it was not a big one.
The front wheel just jumped from one tire track to the other and the I ended up sideways on the road.
Me moving straight forward.
(I know you cannot see how deep the tracks are below the silt.)
This continued for a while before the soil got harder.
Cedarville was disappointing. Gas station only takes cash, the car wash is not working, the other gas station had a huge line of cars waiting, ….
I was happy that I can leave the town quickly and after following the valley on paved roads north the route goes up into the mountains and becomes gravel again. The route goes through the woods north. Very nice, and it starts feeling like Oregon.
Soon the TAT drops me in too Lakeview.
I fancy a motel for tonight and spend a fair bit of money.
Anyway, nice people and a free wash of the bike made up for it. I did some organizing things, and had a good dinner before the pillow got very welcoming.
3rd September – Day 29
Before leaving Lake View I wanted to check the tire pressure at the gas station. It always surprises me when a gas station wants to charge money for air if they even provide that.
This is never the case in central Europe, here all stations have air and it is always for free.
The Route leads into the woods on nice forest roads. Unfortunately there are forest fires in the area which I hoped to be able to avoid.
It was not promising when this vehicle was on the road. And soon enough there was the road closed.
No problem I thought as there is a paved road nearby. Nope also closed.
According my GPS is also forest road. So I’m heading into this alternate. In the beginning it is a really nice road and I’m optimistic that I get through but then it becomes more and more overgrown.
Than more trees are down, but already cleared of the road until this:
Maybe I could push my way through but I didn’t want to take the risk. On my way out I met some hunters but they didn’t know anything in regards to road closures.
So I rode to Bly, refueled the bike and asked about the situation. In the end I was able to go more or less straight north on mainly gravel roads and joint back the TAT before Sliver Lake. Some of the roads are covered with this red stuff.
From Silver Lake the TAT runs again in the woods. But now the road becomes very often sandy and in between rocky section.
I would have never believed that it is possible to have so much sand in the forest.
Both routes, Sam’s and gpsKevin’s, need to be reworked as many of the tracks are blocked or overgrown since a long time.
So I need to navigate around those parts.
That is no problem as there are many forest roads for the harvesting companies.
Nice views and a small road blocks.
This continues until the TAT pops out of the woods just outside of Crescent.
I find on the internet the Big Pines RV Park. They have omly few sites for tents and I’m worried that there is no space left. At the reception I hear the comment ‘we like motorbike riders and always have a spot for them, even we are full we will find a spot.’! That’s what I call a commitment.
4th September – Day 30
Today are 2 highlights for myself on the plan. 1st is the Crater Lake. I have been there 22years ago but it was too early in the year so the road around the lake was closed.
The 2nd is one of the fire towers. I have found one on the net which seems to be reachable by road and has a nice view. And from no on the New and Old TAT routes are more or less the same.
First it goes straight into the woods with sandy roads again.
I pass by some forest workers and for me are these machines very impressive. Not often seen them so close.
Nice view near Lemolo Lake.
And more woods all the way to the Hwy. Then I leave the TAT to visit the Crater Lake which is just some miles south of the TAT.
After the welcome sign and the toll station I have a noice view from the north side.
Phantom Ship
And the most known island, Wizard Island.
It was great to see this phenomenal Nature Monument again.
After the side trip I rode back to the TAT and followed mostly gpsKevin’s blue route and changed towards the end of the day to the green route.
A lot of forest roads and sections have been burned some time ago.
I have planned to stay tonight at the South Umpqua Falls or the Ash Flat Campground. On the net it says highly frequented and I hope that I find a spot.
Before setting up the tent or the night I want to check out the Fire Lookout Acker Rock. The road did not go up as far as I thought but after the hike through the woods I’m rewarded with a stunning view.
And this place can also be rent for the night, but you have to be fast. There is a high demand. When I went there to see the place, it was booked by a young couple and they did that in the beginning of the year.
The campground was empty. And when I say empty I mean empty. I went to check out the Ash Flat Campground but that was even worse. In the middle of the trees and also not one soul. So back to the first site and I took a good look around. It was not comforting that at one site the trash was laying all over the place. At least this campground was fairly open.
Set up tent and had dinner. After that I did the only time on the trip the bear storage for my food up the tree. Anyway the night was good just very cold (no problem). Of course there where animals walking around and you could hear branches cracking but as far as I know there was no bear visit.
5th September – Day 31
Final Day to the coast! It is going to be a long day.
The sun didn’t make it to dry the tent early enough and it was cold.
The route continues through the woods and up and down on the mountains. Thankfully as it was always warmer the higher I got.
At one stage I had to ride on paved road and bypass about 3 miles of the TAT as it was closed due to firefighting.
Soon after being back on the TAT I came to this hard section. the road became smaller and rockier. The picture doesn’t show it at all, but the road came around a corner and then a steep climb up.
The pic is downhill. 1st attempt failed as I came on loose rocks. As I stopped and applied the brakes I went downhill with the brakes on! Thankfully I didn’t fall. Second time I knew which line to take and I made it up. No way I would have made this with a bigger bike. There are many roads through the woods but I wanted to follow the TAT. This section is on both Sam’s and gpsKevin’s route. From here on it was no problem.
Shortly before Glendale I came out of the forest.
In Glendale the only Gas Station is located outside of town and the host knows much about the TAT. He actually is a good source for road closure information.
Refill for the bike and myself, a quick chat and I hit the road again. As there are forest fires around I have no Idea if I will make it to the coast today.
On the last stretch I followed the blue track of gpsKevin’s route. The views are great and the road was good.
Sometimes I was on paved roads for a short time and then the smoke became thicker and blocked the sun so much that it felt like late in the afternoon.
In the beginning of Oregon I was surprised that there were not so many trees. Now I cannot say that anymore. Most of the afternoon the only view I had was trees.
Here is the goal of the day written on the sign!
No problem, but I should have been warned.
I have seen this section when looking for the TAT. This section with the fallen rocks is only on gpsKevin’s route. And I wanted to see it. At the first corner where just a few rocks and an impressive view up.
And then the tricky part as expected. Do not fall! it is very steep on the right side.
After this, the problems really started. Many trees have been down. I was still lucky as there have been riders through here before. Still struggling.
But I made it.
After passing the actually closed road section (there was a sign on the end of that part) it was not much left to the coast.
Final stretch mainly on paved road, and then I was at the destination.
I had planned to celebrate the completion of the TAT, but for whatever reason the restaurant on site was closed and so was the hotel I wanted to stay.
The prices are high on the other options so it was camping again.
So here I am, have still time left, what shall I do now?
My friend Ken, whose help was priceless to me, was at this time in North California on a bike trip. The following day I wanted to visit him and then do the Idaho part of the TAT backwards.
6th, 7th September – Day 32-33
These two days have been just to visit my friend in Eureka. Enjoyed a nice dinner and then head towards Crescent (Oregon). Crescent is the town where the New Idaho part of Sam’s TAT route is joining the Old route on the way to Port Orford.
I didn’t make it all the way and had to stop just past Medford. The amount of smoke in the air was unbelievable due to all the forest fires. On the way it showed again how small the difference between losing all and have no issue, as there where houses surrounded by burned trees, but the houses have been not damaged.
I stayed in the Valley of the Rouge State Park. It was fully booked (not all showed up) but a kind family shared their sport with me.
8th September
Day 34
Passing through Crescent to be finally on the new route going backwards.
First the road is as I have already seen. Forest but sandy roads. But then it runs through the Newberry Volcanic National Monument. I have never heard about these two lakes. Very nice. The Route leads out in the back where is no toll station.
Just east of the lake I saw a mountain with a road climbing up by circling around. So I thought there must be a great view from top.
No it was not. So you have to be satisfied with this pic. Still a nice view with all the trees.
The route turns north and after some time into a valley. In the valley are great rock formations on the side and the river on the bottom. Along are many campgrounds, but I have no supplies so my destination is Prineville for today.
In Prineville I found the Crook County RV Park. It is ideally located at the city entrance and newly adapted for tents and a new Wash building. Very nice staff and good value. The only downside is the fairground next to it.
I followed the recommendation for dinner at Dillon’s Grill. It was very busy but I had luck and got seated right way. The ribs I ordered where definitely in the top 3, and I love ribs.
9th September – Day 35
The night was cool, but no problem as the sun come up early. Today I head east first on paved road before it turns on forest roads through Ochoco National Forest.
Leaving Prineville.
The route is, after the initial paved section, quite remote.
Great riding.
Some of the roads have not seen traffic very often.
And long stretches with,… nothing.
After a fuel stop in John Day I passed many burned houses. It is always sad when you see this. But the forest is coming back.
On one of the mountains was a fire watch tower.
I stopped and had a chat with watchmen. He is there all summer, so guys when you pass by, stop and have a chat. I’m sure he likes that.
Shortly after this I came across the 2 Kiwis on their TAT ride with Honda Grooms. We had a nice chat and exchanged some information about the route.
More forest in recovery mode.
It was already quite late in the afternoon and the following road was running through the woods with strange water channels across the road. They have been so high hills, that you needed to slow down to a nearly complete stop before crossing. Than sections have been with fist size rocks covering the road. Not a pleasant ride.
After a long time riding through the woods I bailed as soon as I had a chance and it became clear that I will not make it to the next town before dusk. So I hit the Hwy to Ontario.
I still arrived there late. Initially I didn’t plan to go that far but I didn’t see any reasonable campground along the way.
10th September – Day 36
Between Ontario and Boise it is a nice mixture of small towns and farm roads.
Before coming to Horseshoe Bend, the route runs luckily on the south side of the river as on the main road is a big line of cars and trucks.
The GPS track into Horseshow bend is running across a bridge which is closed since a long time, but the alternate is just a bit south.
Still it would be a nicer entry point into town over the bridge as it would more or less come right into town center. (If you want to call it center.)
From here to east of Boise I was kind of in the zone. No pics. It was very similar to the last two days.
This changed at the place where the route turns again to the east just outside of Boise. Here are some dams creating artificial lakes. Only thing is, that those lakes have a very low water level. Seeing from other reports it seems to be a longer situation. I still imagine how nice this must have been when the water as all the way up to the road.
The road is very often an annoying washboard and this slows you down as the corners are too sharp to go fast enough to skip over the washboard.
Further into the valley the road runs along the riverbed which I here no longer retained.
It seems to go endless on and on. Than the route turns south across a mountain into Featherville.
The chat at the Refuel stop in Featherville revealed that the track further east is blocked by a landslide since a long time (years).
I asked if there is a possibility to get through with the bike and the answers are mixed. So I give it a go and head about 10 miles into the valley along the river and nice campgrounds.
When I came to the landslide it is a massive half the mountain rock slide style. Basically I’m standing in front of a rock bank which reaches into the river.
I briefly checkout if it is possible to go across the river but it doesn’t look like it is possible.
Looking afterwards on google I maybe should have looked closer but at this time it didn’t make sense to take the risk. Especially as I was alone.
So I turned around and had to go all the way south to the Hwy 20.
In Fairfield I refuel and have to make the decision If I shall go north to join the TAT again, or if I continue towards sun valley and rejoin the TAT there.
I couldn’t see any campgrounds on the direction straight north of Fairfield and I will not make it to sun valley if I go this route. As it is already quite late and me not being prepared for this detour I decided to go to sun valley.
I stop in Bellevue at the Riverside RV and campground. This was a nice spot and I went to a good dinner to compensate for the disappointing detour. At the campground was another ADV rider. He is on a North-South (Alaska to Argentina) journey and uses it for a good cause. We had a long chat and it was interesting to hear his experiences and plans.
This section I didn’t make any pictures as I was focused on ‘problem’ solving. (sorry)
11th September – Day 37
After a cool night I used the help of the other ADV rider to change my rear tire. Even more his bike. I couldn’t get it off the rim so his side stand came in handy.
The installation was ok except that it didn’t wanted to seat. Regardless of all methods used there was no way. So I had to give up on that and accept the not perfectly fitted tire. I left the campground after packing up and kept an eye out for a garage to get some air pressure to seat the tire properly.
Shortly after leaving Bellevue on the right hand side is a industrial area close to the airport and I saw the Woodside Motorsport shop. Set the indicator and hoped to get some help. After waiting a bit, I could explain my situation and was send around the corner to the maintenance area.
There the mechanic came with the compressor and some grease stuff and we tried the best. Deflated, inflated several times and finally with a really high pressure the tire popped into place. What a relief. In addition I asked if I could leave my old tire and how much I owe them.
Mechanic went to the office and came back, … nothing. What? No way. No they said, we are happy to help out travelers like you.
How generous I thought and Karma played along as I met another TAT rider(Hackmanship) later that morning and he was in the search for tires, tubes and some other stuff. So I was pleased to tell him about Woodside Motorsports.
Sun Valley is touristic territory and nothing I was looking for on this trip. But soon past Ketchum this changed. Great mountain roads and views.
This is from Antelope Pass looking backwards and at the summit of the pass.
Unfortunately I do not have a picture on the east side of the pass and my video didn’t work. That was great a ride down.
Further on in the valley it looked like this.
And shortly before reaching the Hwy 93 like shown on the pic below.
You see on the gps track that I did a detour to the Klim Headoffice in Rigby. The plan was to let them know about my experience with their cloths and maybe make a deal on an exchange due to my size issue with the clothes.
To say the least, it was a waste of time. Not only that the person I was talking to was not interested on my feedback at all the only other comment was: Quote: You can by a new set which fits better for full price.
So disappointed as I heard so many times how helpful Klim is and that they listen to the customers.
Anyhow, had back to Arco where I met another TAT rider. We had a chat and decided to take on the offer of a free campsite in town from Scar with his Honey’s Park. It is just a field with some electrical power outlets, no amenities, but as I said for free.
Too long evening story telling happened before it was chilly and we went to sleep.
12th September – Day 38
No sun this morning. We had over to the gas station for a coffee and then its time to go separate ways. He continues north on the TAT and I’m going south.
Leaving Arco. Those Barns are quite common around here. For me they are unusual but I assume that this build style is for Tornado protection.
At one stage the TAT leaves the gravel road and the tracks nearly disappear completely. My GPS has no road shown so I have to follow the bread crumbs and not the road.
The risk that the road goes somewhere else is too big and the distance to the next fuel station is a bit too far for experiments. Later it shows that I could have stayed on the road, but better be safe with the route.
The Route runs along the Craters of the Moon National Monument and it really remote. There is a sign that you are crossing the Great Rift. If the sign wouldn’t there I maybe would ride by without noticing.
Then there were some road signs with destination information and one is the Bear Cave. No Idea what this is but its only about 2 miles off the TAT and I will unlikely come here again soon. So I go for it. First can’t find the cave, no more signs until you stand in front of it
I didn’t expect much and was surprised about the size of this Lavatube.
To get an idea you can see a pellet in the cave. I don’t know how far it goes in, although I walked down and a bit in but soon gave up and returned to the bike.
The Lave created interesting formations.
Already 60 miles through a lot of nothing since Arco. Water is changing the landscape as soon as I approach American Falls.
Fuel Stop for the bike and myself in American Falls. A bit disappointing but at least I’m not hungry anymore. So no regrets to continue. Soon after town all is again farmland. For me unusual to do the harvest with a truck but with this field size.
I glad that there was no rain while I’m riding that kind of roads. That would have been a mess!
Wide farmland! And an abandoned homestead next to the TAT.
And a still running homestead. The TAT runs straight through.
As I ride slowly through I see a guy working on his machines. Friendly waving from both of us.
I’m passing more farms before approaching Tremonton where I want to stay for the night.
That didn’t work out. Did not find an open campground and had to continue further south.
The new plan was to stay in the Willard Bay State Park, but they wanted to charge the same amount as the fully equipped KOA next door. Very friendly and helpful staff at the KOA, just some of the dog owners have been very rude as they walked their dogs on the tent spots.
Hmm not so great, especially as the campground has even a dedicated gras field for the dogs. I guess it was too much asked for walking another 30 meters. Nevertheless a good stay. Laundry done and a good night sleep
13th September – Day 39
Out in the desert is the theme of the day.
I have to ride a bit north to join back the TAT.
The route heads West, passing the Golden Spike National Historic Site where the Central Pacific and Union Pacific railroads joint for the first transcontinental railway. I have been here many years ago. It was nothing else than the spike and the 2 Locomotive back then. Now this is different although I was lucky and the parking lot was not busy.
The Visitor Center was good and there are Rangers? which explain the history and so on. 3 times a day the locomotives perform live action where they meet each other. Nice to see if you like trains.
When the next Busload of tourists showed up it was time to leave and continue West.
Nice wide open views and some glimpse of the salt lake.
The Route follows loosely the old train route, but there is very little to see of the remaining’s.
Before reaching the Hwy on the way south, you need to cross the Emigrant Pass and just before that you pass Devils Garden.
After crossing the Hwy and this dry riverbed it goes more or less straight south towards Wendover, but it is a long stretch. You can imagine how remote this area is. I have seen the entire way from the National Monument only 2 cars.
If you look closely you can see a first signs of civilization. And then paved road down from the range to the lake.
I arrived at the gas station with 1/4Gallon of fuel left in my tank (spare fuel was not touched) and felt really lucky. How lucky I was had been revealed when I wanted to start the engine. Noop, not happening, battery dead. And I mean dead. Even no chance to start the bike by pushing it. Not such a big deal I thought as there where many semi-trucks at the station. So I asked for a jumper cable. Apparently nobody had any. Not even race drivers which stopped for refueling their truck as well.
A father and son were so kind to help me out by bringing me to a Auto parts store. Thanks for that! I got a new battery and because it needed to be charged first they borrowed me a starter pack. With this I was able to start the bike and ride into town where I waited to get the new battery for installation.
After this I searched for a place to sleep and had to stay at the KAO. The town was packed with people who came for the race weekend.
Anyway I headed out to see the famous salt lake race track. Followed the paved road into the lake first.
In the distance you can see the cars in the pit lane.
It doesn’t look like, but I was too late for a visit. And because this was one of the few weekends where the access is closed for the public due to the race (you need to pay an entrance fee) I planned to come back the following day.
14th September – Day 40
After packing up I headed to the Race track. The markings helped with the orientation.
I have been told that this kind of an event is only happening 3 times a year, so I feel lucky that I see an actual race with all the things I only know from TV. (Registration, Technical Check, …) And of course the real Highspeed oriented vehicles.
Classic Cars, all kinds of motorbikes, and special cars. Some are very professional.
It was the 1st time for me on a real Salt Lake.
You have been allowed to go a short distance towards the speed measurement point, but this was always too far away from the actual track to really see anything. Barely seen the cars passing by.
This is the view back to the Pit Lane.
But you can go to the start point and watch the preparation and the start clearance.
Like I know it from the movies. Very interesting and a special flair.
After taking in the atmosphere of such an event it was not easy to leave the place so soon.
I can understand now better the fascination of this and why people devote so much time and money for it.
The Salt Lake is not fully flat!
This is the end of my ride on the TAT. From here I headed east and then north to take on the UTBDR.
The last stretch of the new TAT which runs south to Baker and then east to Green River I didn’t do.
FINISH
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