What is the CDT? The Continental Divide Trail is best known as a long distance hike from the Mexican to Canadian Border. The bicycle version of this trail is very popular as well and is the baseline for the motorcycle version.
This is now the 3rd time I‘m attempting the CDT. The past 2 years it was not possible due to, you know. This year (2022) it was all set until I broke my leg on a trip in Greece. I was ready to postpone it for another year, but the airline had different plans. They would not allow me to rebook to a suitable date and so here I am. One month later than planned but at least the trip got started.
Arrival in the US was stressful as we all had to wait a long time at immigration. The planes must have arrived mysteriously as they were not prepared. With my barely healed leg it was a challenge to stand for that long time, but I managed and was soon reunited with my bike.
Ken was so kind to look after it. Only a few minor maintenance and a new rear tire needed and I was ready to start.
Just the weather did not cooperate so departure was delayed a bit to Sunday.
CDT 21.Aug2022
In the morning the weather was ok so I started my Journey. As I had done the section from the border to Silver City in the Spring, I headed directly to Silver City.
Unfortunately the weather turned a view miles before Lordsburg and it poured down most of the way to Silver City.
After refueling I followed the route and most of the rain stopped soon.
On the Hwy 35 have been some flooded area and they looked quite deep but I got some encouragement from the worker who were there to clear the road.
Soon I was back on dirt and followed the North Star Mesa Road. Most of the road was very well graded, but flooding had damaged some sections. Those have been repaired already and so I continued on.
Until I got to the Diamond Creek. This is about 13 miles before I would reach again pavement. As I approached the creek I saw a truck being stacked on the opposite riverbed and 2 people waving at me. The River was really fast flowing and also very deep. We all looked to find another way to cross it, but that was just not possible.
So they asked me when I go back, to call someone to pull them out of the stream. I did my best, but there was no cellphone reception all the way.
As I reached the 35 again I headed to the campground I have seen on the way up. Explained all to the host and he took care of the phone calls. Apparently it was not easy to get hold of someone.
I hope it worked out to these people and they got out before dark. I pitched my tent right there and hope that I will make it back to Silver City tomorrow morning to take the alternate route north again.
CDT 22.Aug2022
During the night there have been some fairly heavy rain showers. So I was worried if the road will be clear and the water level low enough that I can pass.
I packed slowly as the sun was glancing through the fog. Thankfully all went well in this part and I took the long way around through Glenwood.
Shortly after the town where I refueled the bike, I turned off the highway to the ghost town of Mogollon. It was a mining town and you can see the overburden in the distance.
Just past that one, the road became gravel again. Soon the grey clouds start growing and it started to rain. I could still see blue sky around, so I pressed on. As the road turned north the rain faded out.
Just before Ghost Lake I rejoined the original route. Along Ghost Lake was the road muddy and the lake was really present. I struggled the mud until the river decided to wipe out the road and use it instead as a riverbed just before the narrows. There was no way to go through.
As an alternate I took the route of Mountainman which was a fast gravel road. His route would join the original track north of the narrows. Unfortunately just before I would reach that point, again another river destroyed the road. There was about a 100feet of deep and muddy water flowing along where the road supposed to be. So turning around again and follow the FR4092L to the west all the way to Apache Campground where I hopped on the Highway 12 going east.
The weather stayed good almost all the way to Pie Town.
But the closer I got the muddier the road became. You could see where the trucks have been struggling. To top that off it started to drizzle, but I made it with some wobbling to Pie Town.
I was almost out of fuel and there was a thunderstorm behind me and to the east, so I rode to the west to get some fuel. On the way I ran dry and had to use the Rotopax.
Once the town was reached, I filled up the bike and the canister before I went on the hunt for a very much needed bike wash (and myself) before checking in to a motel. I also needed a breather tube for the gas tank as I lost it somewhere during the day.
I found both opposite of the motel. The rest of the afternoon was used to clean and dry all my belongings, have a bite to eat and get an early night.
(The picture was waken in the morning the following day.)
CDT 23.Aug2022
As usual the weather was great in the morning and I rode back to Pie Town to hook up with the route again.
I made it about 15 miles into the track as it became unrideable. The beginning was totally dry but for some reason the track become muddy as hell. 2 other CDT riders on KLR (Mark and his friend) made it also that far. After we digged out and erected some of the bikes, we all turned around and used Mountainmans track to bypass the section to the point where the track crosses the highway.
A sign warns to enter when wet, but it was totally dry, so we risked it.
Apologies for the lack of pics, I was busy to stay upright.
There were some wet and muddy spots but nothing extreme until about 12 miles before the next highway crossing. It was just on big Mudhole for miles.
I struggled on and lost the two others and waited at the highway crossing for an hour for them.
The picture was taken after a rough cleaning with a stick.
I had no Idea if they might have turned back or what happened. I had no cellservice and I also needed fuel, so I took the highway to grants where I refueled and saw a text from Mark that they are just past the farmhouse. This was about 40 minutes ago.
I decided to wait for them at the car wash place in town and send them my location. It was getting late and I looked into my options for tonight. A KOA is on the outskirts of town as well a brewery RV Park. The latter is next to the highway. 🙁 and the KOA is expensive. Finally Mark replied and to my surprise they have been in town at dinner.
Naturally I‘m pissed. Drove over to them to find out what’s going on. Turned out they just didn’t care to reply because I didn’t stick with them in the mud. I told them my 2 cents and drove off.
The KOA turned out to be the cheaper of the two and after the usual KOA struggle, I set up my tent and ordered a Pizza to reward myself.
Stuffed and tired I went to bed shortly after a great sunset.
CDT 24.Aug2022
This morning I got started slow. Started to pack up my stuff, dried the tent and took advantage of the free continental breakfast.
Leaving town on pavement to the north and ended up at a locked gate on the 1st unpaved section. A sign said ‚property of the US Goverment‘ which was strange as it is just a small valley next to the highway. So be it and I continued on the highway. In the end it turned out that this gravel road didn‘t run through anymore.
After a section in the woods, the route went down to flatland and that meant mud when wet. I didn‘t rain, but there were some puddles now and then.
The track let to a farm and where it supposed to go on was no road, only a muddy field. So I turned around and looked up a connection to the track later on. Aside of the occasional mudhole it was a nice but remote ride on the bottom of the mountain on the east.
The road became better and then worse. Every small creek seemed to destroy the road. Sometimes it was already repaired and then there was no passing for cars at all. Even with the bike I was struggling.
Talking about bikes, I saw some bicycle tracks. Man that must be tough out here on a bicycle.
The sage coach station ruins which I wanted to visit where a bust. Just the remains of a small hut. Later on, I met several Bicycle riders who were dong the CDT N to S. At that day it where 7 in total.
Made it to Cuba and refueled the bike. Although the weather didn‘t look great I continued. After a short shower it was good for the rest of the day.
The route ran again through the woods. The beginning was easy but that changed rapidly. The section to Abiquiu was extremely rough. Some sections I would even not consider a road. Definitely not wanna do this on a big bike.
Sorry, no pics. It was so bad that I didn’t wanna stop, worried that I will not getting rolling again.
Spend the night at the lake in the Riana Campground. The host where very nice and the campground is nicely situated.
I was looking for a chilled evening until the neighbors showed up. 3 young people which seemed to be nice at the beginning until they started to blast music for the entire campground. I always have earplugs for such a case, but this time they barely helped.
CDT 25.Aug2022
Got up at sunrise and packed my stuff. I didn‘t really care that the neighbors where still sleeping. Left at 7:30 and started the route. First on pavement to the next town and then into the forest. Only a few miles as there was the road closed. Turning back and try to use the GPS to shortcut to the Mountainman route didn‘t work out. The open street map seem to be off a lot in this region. So I backtracked to the town and stopped at the ranger station to make sure the other route is open.
They assure me it is ok.
First I made good progress and was happy about the good road but that changed. The higher the route went the rougher the track became.
At on point there was a sign ‚not for passenger cars‘ yeah right, as they would have made it that far. It took me a long time to reach the original track but the day had more in stock for me.
Small sections where really fast flowing and I became optimistic again. But the last section before the highway which runs to Charma was again very rutted and rocky, if not rocky than muddy. Still the landscape was incredible.
As I got to the highway the dark clouds which were forming very quickly, started to let go. I had to go to Charma anyway for fuel and decided to call it for today. Staying up at high altitude with thunderstorms around didn’t appeal to me.
Washed my bike and fixed some small issues before I settled in for the night. Rain made it also to town and I sat in my tent transferring Media files and having a drink.
CDT 26.Aug2022
The night was cool and rainy. I packed up early as I wanted to beat the promised rain and was rolling not much after 7. The climb to Cumbres Pass was cold but pavement. Stopped at the old railway station for a few pictures.
I was worried about the potential mud and bad roads. When turned off the highway onto gravel it was a blast, fast gravel road in very good condition.
Great views and sometimes even the sun came out while riding up the Valley all the way to the town of Platoro.
From there the road climbed up the mountain and back down into a small valley. Some of the red mountains reminded me of Corkcscrew Pass.
After some nice riding the weather became worse and the road turned into mud. Not as bad as NM mud but still enough to cover me in dirt.
The road went up to about 3600 meters and it was chilly to say the least. Past the Reynolds Mine the road descended and it started to rain all the way to Del Norte.
I arrived not much after lunchtime but the forecast was rain for the rest of the day and even worse in the direction I should go. So decision made to stop already for the day. Found myself a nice campground.
CDT 27.Aug2022
I had a good rest at the campground in Del Norte. The host was so nice to place me next to the pavilion and so I could use the seating there during the afternoon. As expected the rain was present most of the time, but in the morning I woke up to a clear blue sky. Still chilly but who’s complaining when sunshine is on the way.
The track was fast and running through nice landscape. It was a joy to ride with mostly dry roads. I made good progress ans after refueling at Sargent I headed across Marshall Pass. It was Saturday and everybody was out playing. Still I was lucky and had the pass with the sign for me alone, for 30 sec.
The town of Salida I didn’t like the 1st time when I was here during my TAT ride and it has not changed. Happy as I left town. Many weekend warriors where going up the mountain on the Ute Trail but all were considerate of others.
The highland around Hartsel was very strange. There are camper scattered around and many street signs are installed in the middle of nowhere. I assume development strategy but it just looked weird.
As I made my way across Boreas Pass towards Breckenridge, the crowd increased. Campers, hikers, and all kind of outdoor people everywhere. Same in Breckenridge, so many people the immediately my runaway reflex kicked in and I just refueled and headed to Frisco to the campground. Unfortunately all of them there where full and so I headed further north. Even past Silverthorn every spot was taken, but along the blue river was another campground, of course full.
But a nice family from Denver which had a huge spot allowed me to pitch my tent for the night. As the evening was getting quickly chilly I went to bed early.
CDT 28.Aug 2022
The night was cold! There was even a bit ice. On my motorcycle seat.
Still I got an early start in the day. The Ute Pass Road was a bit disappointing but fast and easy to ride. Before reaching Kremling I passed by the Willians Fork Reservoir which had many nice campgrounds. Shortly after that I met my first CDT bicycle rider of the day, it will be 13 in total today!
I reached the Colorado River and followed The Valley to Radium Springs.
Interesting place but far too many people. Leaving Radium the rout climbed on s single lane road up the mountain and runs through the woods. Funny that this road is named County Highway 11. At one point the HWY was making a sharp right turn, at least on my GPS. In reality there was no road, but I just had to follow the Forest Road 218 and ended up about at the same place at at HWY 134. A few miles down the road the track leads again into the woods but it turned out that the road is blocked by fallen trees, I think since quite a while.
The walkaround was easy and soon I was back on track riding on the county road 19. this runs nicely through forest but over time it became a bit boring. I was glad when I reached HWY 40 which brings me into Steamboat Springs. Another ski resort town. I set my target to reach Rawlins.
Mostly the road is good, just lacks of views except around Steamboat Lake.
Soon the route runs along the border to Wyoming. This is basically a valley with many farms. Some of them are obviously from rich people judged by the houses.
As I cross the border to Wyoming I’m welcomed with barren land and strong winds. Paved road leads all the way to Rawlins.
There I refuel and stock up on food to head out into the desert.
I try the loop on the right side of the highway but it turns out to be very sandy hills. No fun. As it is already late in the day I decide to turn around and just follow the route to my camping spot behind Bairoil.
It is at an artificial lake and looks nice. Just the wind is inconvenient I thought until it died down and the mosquitoes show up. Nevertheless I have a good night sleep.
CDT 29.Aug 2022
Together with me was a CDT hiker staying at the lake. I also noticed that a trail angel has placed some bottled water below the sign. That’s very kind.
I got startet refreshed and headed further into the desert after I put 1 gallon of my spare fuel into the tank.
The road is in good condition and I make good progress.
At one stage I came across an oil field and the track leads right through it. That was interesting to see here in the middle of nowhere. The same thoughts came to me when a cattle farm came up at the road.
I saw many CDT bicycle riders and even some more hikers. 8 Hikers and 16 bikers. I was surprised that there are still so many on the trail.
After may miles I made it to Atlantik City which is a mini town and I thought that I must have made it. Man was I wrong. Several miles later I ran out of fuel just about 7 miles before the next gas station. Luckily I had brought a second 1 gallon spare fuel canister that came in handy now.
When I arrived at the next gas station 2 other CDT riders going south came over to talk. Both sides had value information to share and after some time we parted ways. Me going north was looking for a late lunch and found it at the Burger Barn on the southern end of Pinedale. Food was good and I continued my travel with new energy.
After Pindale the track leads to up to the Union Pass. This is a fairly long section and I was glad when I reached the highway 287.
I decided to go to Dubois and checked in at the KOA which had a special offer for CDT people. Ther where already 2 guys from the UK doing the CDT hike southbound and putting in a rest day.
About at the same time 2 more bikers from Pennsylvania (father and son) showed up stopping on their way to do the Idaho BDR. (Later I found out that they had to abort the ride after about 1.5 sections as it turned out to be too difficult.)
We had a good chat about all kind of things till late at night and went to bed when it got chilly.
CDT 30.Aug 2022
The night was cold and I had a very slow start into the day. It was almost 10 o’clock when I was on the road.
My expectations for today where low and I thought that I will be on tarmac all day. Thankfully I was wrong. The track allowed nice views on the mountains of the Teton and the area in general.
The lake has a low water level which dampened a bit my excitement, still there where very nice views.
Towards the end of the Teton NP a gravel road leads towards Ashton Idaho. This road runs through the woods for a long time. Just before Ashton it opens up to farmland.
There I met 2 other CDT bikers on KLR from Canada going south. They had bad luck with flat tires, which I‘m no stranger to. We chatted for a bit and exchanged what will come.
Shortly after that the route runs underneath the highway onto an old railway track.
Soon I reached the famous collapsed railway tunnel where you had to go around through a boulder field.
It also got warmer significantly as I approached Island Park.
Refueled and headed out to the Red Rock RV Park which was suggested by the Canadians to stay for a special price to CDT bikers.
The railway track was running for a long time and I had to follow it for about 30 miles. Most of the time it was nice but there were also long sections of hoops which became annoying over time.
CDT 31.Aug2022
My camp was basic and just next to the street, but I slept well. Got on the road quickly and made good progress as the gravel roads where in very good condition. The track makes a sweep to the north after the Lower Red Rock Lake.
This short section in the northerly direction is a bit sandy but not too bad.
After that the road runs west again until I hit a crossroad. There Lima is signed out with 24 miles to go but Unfortunately on the road is a closed sign. So I turned around and continued on the southern side of The Valley all the way to the highway which led into Lima.
After refueling I was quickly back on the gravel roads. Again fast and easy.
Met 4 guys from Canada running the CDT southbound on various motorcycle and 1bicycle rider. We exchanged some info and continued our ways.
It got hot but I wanted to stop at the Ghost Town of Bannack.
There is a very nice situated campground as well.
The Town is full accessible for the most part and you can walk into a lot of the buildings. Well worth the stop.
The track towards Wise River was again very fast and also stretches paved. I didn‘t refuel there as I thought that I will make it to Bute for the evening. Past Wise RIver the track runs on a Forest Service Road to the famous Fleecers Ridge. I wanted to see it myself how steep it really is, so I followed the track to the bottom of it.
As I reached it I understood why people say that pictures don’t to justice and you cannot see how steep it really is. Looking straight onto the hill you cannot see the sky, that’s to give you an idea. There are now 2 tracks at the bottom and the right hand one looks actually reasonable with not much loose stuff.
I know, on the picture it looks almost flat, but believe me it was not at all!
After a short discussion with myself, I attempted to go up. About half way, maybe a bit more, the mighty DR ran out of power. Surprisingly there was enough grip but even with full throttle and in 1st gear my setup was too heavy and the bike stalled.
So what to do now. Going back down or further up. Hey, I almost made it, so I unloaded some of my luggage and gave it a go. After 2 more stalls and 1 tipover I finally made it to the top. Now I ‚only‘ have to go back down for my shedded stuff. Did I mention that it was hot? As I made my way up with part of my belongings I heard some bike at the top but I was still to far down to see them.
It was a group of Canadians with big bikes which questioned themself if they should go down Fleecers Ridge.
As I reached my bike they came down on foot and we discussed the situation. Two of them where so kind to get my remaining things at the same time as they take a closer look for the steepness. They decided not to risk it and after we exchanged some info about the track, we all stopped at the next campground for the night. After a quick dinner and a lot of chit chat at the campfire we all went to bed fairly early. What a day!
CDT 1.Sept2022
From the campground it was only a short ride to the highway where the Canadians headed south and I continued on the trail towards Bute in the north.
All easy stuff all the way to town and beyond. About 20 miles or so north of Bute before the town of Bernice, there is a tunnel which is blocked with a metal barrier at both ends. No way around it. Later I found out that this is an alternate route for the bicycle riders, just for info. The only way around close by was to take the highway to Bernice.
From Basin on the route runs through the woods and som sections are quite rough and definitely a handful on a big bike.
Don‘t try to go across Lava Mountain, which is the actual Bicycle track, unless you are on a very light bike AND a very good rider. I just saw the south end of that track and it was filled with big boulders! Even the normal route around it is challenging in some sections.
Form where the bicycle route rejoins, the track is mostly fast flowing gravel through really pretty Landscape, Mountains all the way to Lincoln.
There I stopped for the night in the Lincon Park. Cheap camping and walking distance to a steakhouse.
Met 1 CDT Hiker from Canada at the campground and 4 Bicycle riders on the trail.
CDT 2.Sept2022
It was crips at the morning but going to be a sunny day.
I was worried if I can do all the track as some riders had reported that close to Seeley Lake is a road closure. So I drove to the Ranger Station but they didn‘t know anything as this is in a different district. Couldn’t find anything current on the internet so I gave it a try.
The first section was easy and good condition but as I past the campground and the Ranch next to it there was a sign saying ‚not passable when wet‘. Immediately you could see that there have been people not respect that. Deep ruts in the road where the result and I needed to be extra careful. The mountains around made it hard to focus on the road.
The rest of the track to Seeley lake was mostly fast and easy through the woods. The Town itself is very touristic and busy. From there the route takes you again into the woods almost all the way to Columbia Falls. Pretty but boring after a while. Here I saw a small grizzly just running off the street. Either he was to fast or me to slow, but there is no footage. Sorry.
As I approached Whitefish, I was clear that here is money and a lot of tourists for the glacier NP. Checking the pricing closer to the NP made me quickly to stop here. The State Park just outside of town was full, but a nice motorbike rider from the east cost allowed me to share his spot for the night. The train was running just next to the place and was a bit loud.
We spend the evening chatting about everything and I had a very nice evening.
CDT 3.Sept2022
The night was ok and not cold at all.
We chattet for a long time and continued in the morning. For that reason I got going a bit late. As I had no permit for the Glacier NP I rode the normal route north. It was passing through the woods and along sever lakes. Pretty and fast. Mountainmans route runs straight to the border which is closed since a long time, but I wanted to see it so I followed his track.
At the crossing of FS road 114 was a sign that the road is closed in 10 miles. Now what to do? Let’s try it and see what the closure is all about.
I met a couple in a truck which told me that they were working here but for the weekend they had stopped and cleared the road, so I could go.
The track was sometimes rough but still good to ride. As I exited the Valley onto a bigger road I came across the closure sign for the section I just did. So all good.
It started to show some smoke in the area but my goal was to reach the border this afternoon so I moved on.
The remaining road is paved even it tries to avoid the normal highway.
Finally I saw the border Station. Took a quick picture and headed towards my next travel Adventure on this trip, the Idaho BDR.
A big thanks to Canonshoot and Mountainman for their tracks. They have been a big help and I appreciate this a lot.
FINISH
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