The plan was to get to know my newly acquired bike, a used DR650 and to see how I will like the off-road riding. My experience to this date was mainly on paved road.
Let’s start with the AZBDR. For those who don’t know, the BDR is a GPX track published by a non-profit organization to ride across an entire state mainly on dirt roads. You can find this for many states in the US.
Before I can ride the AZBDR I have to prep the bike which I had a lot help with from Ken. He hosted me in Arizona and got me started.
pic used from: https://ridebdr.com/AZBDR
Here is the patient first on the bench for some preparation and service work, then before the first run and afterwards fully loaded.
DAY 1 – May 12th 2018
I rode almost to the border with Mexico. The BDR starting point is just before that and is marked with a sign.
From there the route runs on a paved road for a short while before the unpaved Montezuma Pass starts. Great views once the summit is reached. On the other side it is an easy descent.
The Mexican Border is a fence in a straight line, but with farmland on both sides.
Soon the route turns north.
Some of the livestock wants to do a stare down competition. He lost!
After a quick fuel stop in Sonoita and a short run on the highway it goes into the ‘Las Cienegas National Conservation Area’. I was planning to use the normal route which I have downloaded from the Backcountry Discovery Route homepage.
Soon comes my first Gate and first obstacle.
Some areas have seen wild fires. The trail is good, with small spots of rocks and sand. All no problem.
Following the re-route from 2015 I hit the gate which supposed to be without any ‘private property’ sign. Walking around to investigate where I could go to avoid private land, but couldn’t find another way. Checking the Nav also brought no solution. So off I went with the hope that the owner has some understanding for me and hit a fairly long stretch of deep sand. This was very hard for me as I have close to zero sand experience.
I was exhausted and had to take a break in the shade as soon I came to a section with a bit less deep sand.
It was so hot!
After this the trail got easier again even it was rocky in some sections (not shown in the pictures). Made it back to Tucson for the night stop and evaluate how things went.
DAY 2 – May 13th 2018
The next morning on the highway to Benson and after a quick fuel stop I headed north through the San Pedro River Valley. Landscape is changing quickly from some farmland into semi desert with a lot cactus.
There have been and some wild fire in the distance, nothing too serious.
After the recommended stop at ‘Mi Pueblito’ in Mammoth for some Tacos the route led along the railway tracks.
These old tracks run towards Winkelmann where fueling up was needed.
Shortly after filling up the bike, the trail left the Highway and winds up the Crow Canyon all the way to Pioneer Pass.
This part had long and steep rocky sections which were tough. Not only to me, also for the tires but the views where well worth the effort.
On the other side of the Pioneer Pass the road was well graded and running thru the woods. Plenty of campsites but too early for me. Nice descend into the town of Globe.
In the distance is the ‘Theodore Roosevelt Lake’.
I’m crossing the Salt River, which runs to this lake, over a nice bridge.
Initially I have planned to take the Cherry Creek Road (FR203) but as I had to be in Payson this evening I stayed on the Globe-Young Hwy.
Man this was a nice winding road up the mountain.
Young is a nice little town with interesting old buildings and more.
It was getting chilly and quite late but I made it into Payson and had a nice evening at Carter’s place (a friend of Ken).
DAY 3 – 14th May 2018
Payson to Mogollon Rim on the Hwy, than on the Rim Road into Coconino National Forest. Beautiful views!
My first Road Closure which caused me to do a detour from the original route. Now I was going on forest roads through Jones Crossing to Clints Well for fuel. You always need to expect detours!
Short run on the Hwy to get to the forest road which leads to the Kinnickinick Lake.
Nice Landscape but stretches of very rocky road.
Than the trail goes down into the lowlands.
On my way to Winona I made the questionable decision to use the hard option.
It was all ok with the exemption of a short steep downhill section (it is always steeper than it looks) which nearly got me.
After fueling up in Winona I’m approaching the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument from the back side. There are a lot of Craters along the route and soon I see deep black sand and getting close to Lava towers.
Arriving at the Sunset Crater quite late and according my maps there should be a free campsite just before the Monument. Couldn’t find it and so I drove to the developed campsite at the visitor center. Expensive, low quality but clean and very friendly host.
DAY 4 – May 15th 2018
After a cool and quiet night I did the same as my neighbor in the tree and enjoyed the early sun.
Following the road past Sunset Crater and turn into black sand again. This time not so deep and easy manageable but makes an interesting landscape.
The route crosses the Hwy 89 and leads further west.
Farmlands with more steaks hiding in the bushes and again some rocky sections.
Before the trail loops back to the Hwy 89 it runs through some canyons.
Shortly before the Cameron Trading Post are some fuel stations, Burger King, etc. and the small round building of Navajo Indian Park & Rec. Permit Office.
As I fueled up a guy approached me and asked if I’m doing the AZBDR. Of course, interesting that this is so well known and recognized. Walking into the office and after a few minutes a lady shows up at the counter to ask what I want, I just said I’m doing the AZBDR and need the permit. A blank stare, pause, what’s that?
So after explaining what I want in more detail, I had to fill in some papers, pay the fee and received an information sheet together with the permit to drive through and Camp on Navajo land. Before I can leave a last advise from the lady: follow the rules and the people living there want to be left alone. Oh good, so am I.
Following the Hwy until the turnoff is shown on the Navigation System, right at a Souvenir shop and a sign is welcoming me that I’m not allowed to proceed without permit. The Navajo land is about the same landscape as before until I reach the Little Colorado Overlook.
This is also my campsite for the coming night.
I enjoy the canyon view as the sun goes down.
DAY 5 – May 16th 2018
After a very windy night (really? right next to a cliff is wind? stupid me) I had an early start. The colors of the canyon were great. What a view out of the tent.
The route runs zig zag through Navajo land which is the same as before but has some interesting rock formations.
There a lot of horses which run always away as soon as someone is approaching them on the road, or like me just passing by.
Coming over the hills approaching the Hwy 89 which runs to Marble Canyon.
At the Canyon are the 2 bridges (1 for cars, 1 for pedestrians) across the green water of the Colorado River.
The Hwy runs along the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument which is seen from here as an impressive and colorful cliff.
After a few miles the route turns off the Hwy to the right onto the House Rock Road.
There is a Condor viewing area shortly after the turn off, but by this time of the day there are of course no Condors to be seen.
The road goes north towards the endpoint of the AZBDR at the Utah border through a long valley. It is a nice situated one and colorful rock formations are seen again and again.
And that’s the End.
Kidding! As the title said it goes beyond. In this case I ride to Kanab for the night so that I can participate in the Lottery for the famous Wave the next morning.
In Kanab I meet another traveler from Austria aka Mario. Talking about traveling (he traveled through the US and Canada for the past weeks) and bikes, I found out that he also wants to go for the lottery. So all set for the next morning.
May 17th 2018
After clearing camp we made it to the Visitor Center in Kanab for the morning lottery of the Wave permit. As we arrive there, many people are around the building inside and outside.
I knew that May is a popular month but I didn’t believe when it was said that there are more than 100 people trying to get one of the 10 permits per day.
Today where 69 applications for close to 170 people! My plan takes shape what I will do after the lottery as I’m usually not a lottery winner.
As it is time, the people gather in a room follow the draw. The room is not big enough for everyone so many stand in the hallway.
Before it starts, all the applications name are read out load and people have to confirm that they are here. All is well organized and the host is very calm unlike the people but everybody seems to be in a good mood.
For me it is interesting to see that they use a bingo wheel for the draw.
Our expectations are obviously low especially after we heard that some people are here since several days in a row to try their luck.
What shall I say, Mario’s number was drawn first. Everybody is clapping and wants to know how many people are on that application. After he said 1, the atmosphere in the room was more up and relaxed. As Mario’s number was just one before mine, I had zero hope for myself but felt happy for him.
Then more numbers were drawn and everybody was happy for the winner even themselves have not won. Very enjoyable experience! After 4 more people had been lucky, to my surprise my number was drawn as well. This was great and a touchy moment for me.
Soon all 10 spots where allotted and the winners had to stay for instructions and making the payments to receive the permits for the next day.
For us it meant change of plan. Back to the campsite to secure a spot for the night (Kanab was very busy) and then we wanted to do part of gpsKevin’s LA Trans American Trail route down to the Grand Canyon and back.
It started off with a nice graded road after we left the Hwy following the blue (=normal) route.
Than we decided to go on the hard option (=red). This part was nicely running through the woods but the GPX track didn’t match the road on many occasions. Not a big deal as there where not too many possibilities to go. Some parts where rocky and roots from the trees across but ok.
And then we came to a very rocky steep section. Very tough for me and at one event my front wheel jumped to the side and I dipped over. Thankfully I was basically not moving forward so nothing happened other than my first drop.
Passing through Bar 10 Ranch to the Grand Canyon Overlook was without any problems and the people of the Ranch where very friendly.
They just received new guests via their own airport.
The Overlook is very nice. I was just a bit worried about my fuel level as the riding distance didn’t match the provided miles numbers on the map.
Bikes are checked before going back.
We took the blue route (the normal difficult level) all the way back to Kanab where we arrived quite late. I just made it into town when the tank had to be switched to reserve even I had an extra gallon of fuel with me.
In the evening we celebrated the successful day with a barbecue.
May 18th 2018
Today is the day of the hike to the Wave! After packing up the camp we took the Hwy 89 east for about 40miles before we turned on to House Rock Road. We wanted to check out the free Border Campground to see if we can get a spot there for after the hike. When I had passed by 2 days ago it was packed but we were again lucky and there was plenty space. After setting up our tents we had a nice chat with our neighbor ‘Al’, a lawyer from California.
As he was going for shopping we asked if he would be so kind to bring us some along and he did! Very kind.
Short ride to Wire Pass Trailhead, attached permit to the bike and backpack, log in to the book and off we went.
The hike was easy but took some time as it was more than 3 miles 1 direction. There was no marked trail. We had to navigate with a provided pictured map and there was lots to see.
Finally the wave as it is known:
We took a lot more picture from this one of a life time experience and had a great day hiking.
Returning to the campsite we were looking forward to have a nice steak and some beer to relax and enjoy.
What a day!
May 19th 2018
Today’s plan is to follow gpsKevin’s LA TAT track towards Escalante via Big Water.
We did the route in the opposite direction which was good and bad at the same time. I will explain. First it started nice with some difficult climb out of the valley but this was honored by a beautiful view.
Than after a short ride on the Hwy we followed a road which became more and more obviously not used very often but seen nice formations.
At one stage we even found a dead cow on the ‘road’. Fairly long stretches of sand didn’t made it easier and then we came to a hold as the road ended in a drop into the riverbed.
This was shortly before reaching Big Water.
I understand that conditions can change but what we saw after we managed to overcome this obstacle is not acceptable for a route which is officially sold.
In the riverbed was a fence with a gate and on there was a sign stating that no motorized vehicles are allowed beyond this point. In the direction we came from. We had to plow our way out of the riverbed through deep sand as the route was now where near a rideable area.
In Big Water we refueled our bikes and discussed what to do.
Mario has heard that the route going through Grand Staircase Escalante is not a good idea and it is extremely rough and difficult if not impossible to pass. Mind that this is supposed to be the blue=normal route.
Talking to the girl in the shop confirmed this again. So we were sitting outside had a bite to eat and refilled our fluid level when a few local guys started a conversation with us.
Their comments confirmed again that going this route is not a good idea but they suggested a different way which is bypassing the worst part.
So we planned with the GPS the detour which was basically the Smokey Mountain Road.
After the climb the road was following the rim.
And more of this great routing.
The landscape changed as we were heading north. Soon the route was going into a canyon.
On the way to Escalante we stopped at devil’s garden. We did a hike through the rock formation and enjoyed the interesting views.
The remaining part of the trail into Escalante was leading through nice landscape and the clouds where getting darker. As we rolled into Escalante the rain started and we got a bit wet
Escalante was extremely busy and our plan to take a motel for the night was quickly obsolete. All full. So looking for a campsite which turned out to be not so easy as well.
Finally we found right in town at Escalante Outfitters a spot. They have all you need including an equipment shop and a restaurant.
May 20th 2018
Despite the difficulties we had with gpsKevin’s Maps we wanted to give it another try and following the route north as far as we get today.
Mario wanted to do Hell’s Backbone so we started in the cool morning on a very well graded road north following the blue route. After most of the route was going through the woods we reached the interesting rock formation of the Hell’s Backbone where a big hype around a short bridge on a small ridge was made.
The descent into Boulder was similar as the climb and then the route was on the paved Hwy.
All the road to bullfrog marina was paved with the exemption of the famous Burr Trail switchbacks plus a bit before and after.
Along the route the landscape was changing and we had a mix bag for the weather as well.
As we approach Bullfrog Marina it was 12:55. That meant the ferry is supposed to leave in 5 minutes. ? I guess they wanted to wait longer and hoped for more customers. Too bad that’s all what was coming 1car and 3 bikes.
On the other side we stopped for a drink and a snack and asked if in Hite Marina (our destination for tonight) is a shop where we can buy some things. Clear answer: yes but they have a smaller selection. Ok that’s fine we thought and took off.
First we took the short green section and then followed the blue route. Where the blue and the green separates the 2nd time, this is where the Red Canyon Road starts.
A well graded road which runs along a cliff most of the time until the route makes a right turn. That’s where the route leaves the nice road right within a turn and goes uphill. Very easy to miss.
After this turn off the road became more and more desolate. Nothing not manageable but significantly more challenging than before.
Some steep long climbs started right with a 180 degree turn, stretches of very rocky climbs and so on.
Just before the summit we thought that we will not make it. And to complete the situation the bike from Mario had some overheating problems.
We strike luck again and found a rain water collecting system and used it to replenish Mario’s bike. Ready for the last climb to the summit. Note to myself: this should be marked as a hard option!
The Descent down to the Hwy 95 was easy but still interested routed.
By this time it was quite late and we hoped that the shop in Hite Marina has still open. Right! There was no shop at all. The one which was there is under construction and people where still working. So I thought not a big deal let’s ask them where we could get something.
No luck and not helpful people at all. Even a wrong information when I asked for the campground. Thanks god there was a fuel station and free water supply (not very good tasting).
The campground was basically empty but the other guests were very friendly and helped us out with a beer and some water. So cooking, a drink and setup the tent before it is dark. I hoped for a nice sky full of stars because this is in the middle of nowhere but no luck with that as clouds where moving in.
May 21st 2018
From today onwards it is again a solo ride as Mario has to head back to Salt Lake City for his flight home.
The planned route is going to Monticello and further to Needles Outpost for the night stop. It starts easy on a well maintained gravel road and climbs than up into the mountains above 10 000feet.
I even found some snow before the road was descending quickly down into Monticello where I got fuel for the bike and myself.
After a late Lunch and being again warmed up I decided to take the green route which was basically the Hwy.
Nice and scenic all the way to the outskirt of Canyonlands NP where Needles Outpost is located.
This is a private place and I wanted to stay there because it said at a cliff with a view of the landscape. Me imagine that the campsite is on top of a cliff, looking down into Canyonlands. As I arrived there it was in flatland ending on a cliff base.
So I went back and camp at the BLM Hamburgers Campsite. The wind was very harsh and my tent which is normally green was red and partially covered with a ‘sand dune’.
No pics on that sorry.
May 22nd 2018
For today it is planned to take the blue route through Lockhart Basin and Hurrah Pass to Moab. I have been warned by Mario that this will take time as it is a quite difficult section. Nowadays it is called expert section.
So early start was on order, the weather was also not too good and I definitely did not want to be trapped with a rainstorm in there.
The begin was an easy graded road along the Basin and I asked myself when it will go up and where are these difficulties but I didn’t have to wait very long. Lockhart Basin has rocky steep but short sections with big steps. I’m glad that I did it in the northerly direction and not as it is on the map to the south.
The most difficult section shown first from the top and then from the bottom. And remember it is always steeper than it looks.
Reaching Chicken Corners meant from here on it is easy. This was also represented by the amount of ATVs and Bikes on the trail. Hurrah Pass and towards Moab is basically a graded road and I was happy as the weather didn’t look promising.
The clouds where getting darker and darker by the minute and surely I hit rain just before Moab.
I found a carport for shelter I waited until the rain stopped and continued to my reserved camping spot in the middle of town.
Up the Creek is a small campground only for tents in walking distance to most in Moab.
After setting up my tent I used the rest of the day for shopping and preparation for the coming days as this was going to be my base for the next time.
May 23rd 2018
Today’s Target is doing the White Rim Trail shown in grey on the map.
After the rain yesterday it is a cool and beautiful morning when I start the trail via the Potash Road clockwise. First I followed the river and then passing the potash factory with some colorful water.
There is one long climb on the trail. As I arrived at the location there is a GS stranded a bit up but already helped by cyclists.
A Jeep driver from Quebec complains a lot about the GS rider. Funny was that he struggled on that part later as well.
Anyway with some momentum and controlled line selection it was no problem.
From the top a beautiful view.
On the other side of the Plateau is a similar downhill section but easier. After that the trail gets closer to the Colorado River and runs close to it until it winds up through switchbacks to the Plateau again.
On the way back I’m riding on the Gemini road but I will go to the Gemini Bridges tomorrow.
May 24th 2018
Going back the same route as I have used yesterday evening towards the Gemini Bridges but using the lower access via Bulls Canyon. This is including a short hike to see the Bridges from below.
It is difficult to see but there are two bridges next to each other.
Initially I had planned to go to visit the Arches NP but after seeing the huge cue at the park entrance I decided to do the TAT section with the Black Dragon Canyon.
Main reason doing this now is that I have read a lot reports where it was said that the Canyon is very difficult. So taking the route out of Moab which follows for a long stretch a pipeline through the desert to Green River.
After a fuel stop in Green River which seems to consist only of Gas Stations and Motels, the trail runs on roads which are not used a lot and have many sandy sections. Soon the first higher rock formations are visible in the distance.
The Black Dragon Canyon was this time easy to go through. It looked like someone was grading the road with some gravel to make it a nice trail.
Nevertheless it is an impressive location especially when keeping in mind that not too far away a Hwy is running along.
A nice ride through such farmland led me back to the Hwy 70 which I took back to Moab.
Unfortunately my rear tire went flat on the Hwy. My first one, so let’s get to work. After removing the tire I saw that the last guy who installed my tire has damaged the tire bead so badly that the reinforcing wires are sticking out.
What the heck, I have to try it. So fixed the hole in the tube and but all together. Getting the tire on the rim was extremely hard due to the damaged area but finally I made it. Just to find out that I have pinched the tube during my struggle.
So all again and found that there is no way to patch the tube again. Luckily I have a new tube so throw that on in and tire on the rim. Filled the tire and, …, yes it hold the air. Rebuild the bike and check again the tire pressure.
Oh no, it loses pressure but at least slowly. Refilled and lets go. Now I had to stop every 10min to refill the tire, but I made it back into town on a slow pace.
Goal for tomorrow, find a new tire first thing in the morning.
May 25th 2018
Early in the morning I started calling tire shops in Moab only to find out no tire shop carries motorcycle tires. This is weird to me but I have seen this in France as well.
So Motorcycle shop it is. Madbros at the outskirt of Moab has tires. Not in the correct size but close enough and I even can choose between a D606 and a MT21. It is the D606 together with a new tube and rim protection band. Not cheap but at least I have it soon installed and I’m on my way around 11am to the Arches NP.
I want to hike the Devils Garden to see the Double O Arch as I had not seen that at my last visit. Of course also to enjoy the rest of this breathtaking landscape including the more famous Landscape Arch.
Double O Arch
On my way back to the parking lot are of course more nice views.
Arrived at the parking lot, started the bike and rolled out of the spot, … engine died. What the F…! Tried to start again but nothing other than motoring the engine. Hmm, maybe the fuel because the bike was parked in the hot sun.
Is fuel in the Carburator, Checked, –> no.
Maybe the fuel filter, checked –> no.
Maybe the spark ignitors, checked –> no, but still replace them just to be sure.
Maybe fuses, checked –> no.
The Ranger on site was helpful with allowing me to use his truck to jump start the bike as the battery slowly gave up. The ranger insisted that the bike is not allowed to be parked in the NP overnight. So my options where limited. Made a few phone calls, garage, towing companies, friend, … asking the Ranger if he knows anyone who could help. Nothing, oh except the towing company (National) who wanted to charge me 300$ for towing to Moab + 100$ hook up fee. Thanks, but no thanks.
Starting to push the bike towards the downhill section of the NP Road. A few people stop asking if I was running out of fuel, no it’s full. They also offered water, very kind thanks.
Finally reached the downhill and, …, nothing. Now at the bottom of the hill I rested and thought about my options when a SUV with 2 young ladies stopped again and insisted to help. Having no other idea I said thanks but I can’t see how. They even offered to help me pushing the bike. Sweet.
Hmm, I have a rope in my saddle bags, maybe they girls are willing to tow me. Asking, and yes they will. So here we go, explaining to them how it can be done in a fairly safe way and off we go. Works great and the girl driving was doing a great job all the way to the last hill before the park exit. I don’t want to get them in troubles if this is not legal so we stop and I roll by myself out of the park.
Outside the NP we gathered again to see what we can do to bring the bike to the garage on the other side of town. A truck with a bike on load and a Razer on a trailer stopped at the traffic light next to us and I asked him if it would be possible to get somehow help. He quickly agreed, turned around, unloaded the Razor, loaded my bike and brought me to the garage.
I couldn’t even do anything good to the young ladies, as they dind’t want to and were staying somewhere 2h away and had only be in town to see the NP. Also the gentleman with the truck didn’t allow me to do anything. Very generous, nice and helpful people. Wish them all the best and hope I can somehow return the favor in the name of Karma.
May 26th 2018
The following morning I walked to the garage (Madbros) and started to disassemble the bike to safe the mechanics some time. Finally he showed up and promised to look into my issue.
After a nerve wrecking waiting time the mechanic checked out the stator and pickup sensor within as he suspected this after my story was told. Surly enough it is the sensor for the ignition within the stator assembly. After he checked his and friends store the depressing answer was, nothing and when ordered it will be here earliest on Wednesday. Unfortunately that’s the day of my flight out of Tucson leaving the States, so no option.
Talking to Ken who was staying in Payson for the weekend. He offered to come and pick up the bike and myself despite that this was a very long drive. Many thanks to Ken for this help! This also means that I have to find a place to sleep for this night and the Host of the ‘Up the Creek Campground’ have helped me with this problem even they were fully booked.
After this, all what was left to do was assemble the bike and walk back to town.
And that’s the end of my first Ride Report.
I want to say again many thanks to all who helped me on this trip and made it a unforgettable experience!
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