Now this Ride Report needs a little explanation. I did the southern part of this Back Country Discovery Route (South of Tonopah) in Spring of 2022 after the completion of the California BDR when I looped back towards Arizona. The Northern part had to be postponed to a later date due to snow and the low temperatures. When I started the Northern part of this BDR I had some time left so I mixed it with the Battle Born North route (BBN). The BBN is a loop running through Jarbidge as well.
I want to keep these separate but it explains the strange date pattern.
Day 1 (11th Sept, 16th Sept)
I finished the IDBDR in Jarbidge and started the following day south on the NVBDR.
The morning was cold but the route climbs soon up into the sunlight which made it a little bit better.
The road leads through the mountains with beautiful views.
On the map is a town marked with the name Charleston. But there is no town.
South of the ‘town’ the route was a fast gravel road. I rode the BDR to the point where it turns to the west. Here the Battle Born North Route (BBN) which runs also through Jarbidge turns east. For now I followed that one and had planned to come back to this location after I completed the BBN loop.
The BDR joins the Highway 225 in about 10 miles just south of the Wild Horse Reservoir. Unfortunately I never made this little section. When I finished the BBN the weather and the forecast was in the mountains so bad that I just continued on the 225 South.
So I follow the Highway 225 to Elko. This is an all paved section. In town I stopped for fuel and early Dinner supply.
I Leave Elko on the Hamilton Stage Road. This is a strange road with a lot of erosion and some gates.
All passable but I had often the feeling that I’m wrong, what I wasn’t. That way I rode across the Pinon Mountains to the East Campground at the South Fork Reservoir.
Unfortunately this was a very expensive one although a nice location on a hill above the lake. I spoke to some campers and they told me that the Coyote Cave Campground on the other side of the lake is cheaper. There I found a nice spot and had a relaxing evening.
Day 2 (17th Sept)
The next day, I was following the route south on a fast gravel road before it turns for a short while into higher elevation. The rain of the previous day made it sometimes a bit tricky and erosion showed that this was already going on for a longer time.
It is hard to believe that here is enough vegetation to run a ranch.
Riding through wide open valleys on long straights allowed to make good progress.
The Diamond Valley has a lot of Marchland. This allows at the same time some green gras and the remaining’s of more intense farming.
The road out of this valley is a very well maintained gravel road across the Bailey Pass.
Riding across the Mc Clusky Pass was the a second time for me. This little stretch is shared with the BBN route. At one time the road takes you through a ranch homestead. So please ride slowly.
At the end of this valley the route of the BDR turns south and the BBN turns north on the Grass Valley Road.
Before I reach Austin NV, the destination of today, I had to cross the Emigrant Pass which is at the same time the Pony Express route.
The pass was not difficult and soon I reached the paved Highway 50.
Instead of following the pavement, the route is going across the HWY and then towards the town on a gravel road.
Here are many of those and I had to make sure to follow the line on my GPS. Before I made the descend into town I met other riders on the trail. They had the same destination as me but where not doing the BDR. Unlike me, they had booked a motel room in town.
I was not far of today’s destination but I expected the town to be a little bit bigger.
First order was to find fuel which was no problem, unlike the task to find a place to stay.
Many places are closed including the first gas station I saw.
At the gas station I met those riders again and we agreed to meet up for a drink later on.
The motel rates were out of my budget and so I searched for camping. I found an entry on the internet that you can stay overnight at Stokes Castle just outside of town
The road to the ‘castle’ was in good condition, just the building really disappointed although it had a great view over the valley.
Camping here also did not appeal to me especially with all the people around. You could maybe stay with a small campervan.
So I made my way back to town and tried to negotiate a better price with the motel. This was unsuccessful but I found a cheap and clean camping spot at the other end of town. Set up the tent and head back for a drink with the other riders.
The plan was to meet at the International Café.
This was closed and so we settled in another bar on the main street. The locals there were very friendly but when we asked about the closed Café they said something like good that you didn’t go there and more not so nice things about that place. Anyway, we had a nice evening with nice conversations and interesting stories.
Day 3 (18th Sept)
The following morning the route leaves town right next to the play park and runs straight up the hill. This is steep road and erosion seems to be a problem around here.
Soon the road runs down into the valley and further south on the east side on the Big Creek Road.
This road turns east into the mountains towards the Kingston Summit.
Yesterday I had thought of continuing after the struggle to find a place to stay, but now I’m happy that I didn’t. All morning long it is cold and when I passed the busy campground I shiver from the imagination how it would have been to stay here. In the valley the road climbs constantly while a tiny creek crosses the road several times. There are some steep switchbacks before I reach the summit.
The picture shows the view looking back the valley from there.
Going down on the other side are also switchbacks before the road follows the valley further east.
On this side of the pass is a Guard Station and another campground.
First I thought that this little hut is the Station but there are some more buildings.
I ride through the strange little ‘town’ of Kingston were is not much to see and follow the 376 for a short while before crossing the valley.
The GPX routing is not 100% here but it is no problem to find the way as this is a wide road build to serve mines on the other side.
Still there are some small spillages on the road, nothing dramatic.
The road climbs until it passes one of the mining sites.
The view back down is nice.
This is the Northumberland Pass and Canyon road leading out into the wide Monitor Valley. Just before I reached the main road in the valley the route turned onto a smaller track.
It runs more or less south and joins the main road a little later. What a view!
On the BDR map is a strange turn shown. Instead of following the road straight it makes a bypass to the east before rejoining.
I was wondering why and found out soon that the road going straight is closed by a gate.
After this the route again veers off from the main road and follows more or less parallel to it on a less quality track. For a moment I think about what to do and decide to stick to the route. This turned out to be a good decision although it is slower. I passes by some old ruins which are interesting to see and I would have missed otherwise.
The last stretch before I reach the ‘ghost town’ of Belmont I would not do again. It just runs through bushland with many turns and soft patches.
Belmont is no ghost town and seems very touristy. Ready for the weekenders from the city. I was expecting something different.
Feeling a little disappointed I checked the map and saw another ghost town marked with the name Manhattan just a few miles off the track.
Decision made. After following the route for some time and passing through a gate of the public campground, deep sandy sections and washouts I reached the turn off point.
The gravel road to Manhattan was wide and fast. So it took me no long to reach the town. This was very similar to Belmont and aside of some old buildings not looking like a ghost town to me.
After this little excursion I continued on the BDR towards Tonopah. The land became flat and barren. The route follows for a while the paved road. There was a strong and cold wind. This made me to skip the loop of the BDR which runs to the left and hits soon a HWY and returns to this road which it crosses and continues to Tonopah.
I rejoined the route a this point and followed a rough road passing a prison complex and go over some hills.
Reaching the outskirt of Tonopah was taking longer than expected and I was glad that I made it to the gas station. After a short stop at the famous Clown Motel I continued.
Day 4 (30th March)
CUT! Wait a minute, March? In reality I was riding from here first on the HWY east and then turned on to the Extraterrestrial HWY 375 south towards Las Vegas to hop on the NVBDR and AZBDR Connector. Visited the North Rim on the Grand Canyon and rode some of the AZBDR south to reach Tucson. But that’s a different story.
So we make kind of a time travel. I rode the NVBDR from Tonopah south in spring time after I finished the CABDR. And here we continue this story!
Tonopah is a gambling town with strange vibes. Here the Clown Motel fits right in with the casinos and some historic buildings.
The route leaves town on the HWY 95 and veers off to an old road just next to it after some miles.
The broken pavement shows that this is not used anymore. Soon this was replaced by a gravel track.
Goldfield has some interesting exhibition objects on the street. The building where I joined the Main Street had a lot of decorative things on the wall.
Just outside of Goldfield is the International Car Forest. An art installation in the spirit of the Cadillac Ranch. You can ride through the erected cars and get really close if you like.
After leaving this place the route runs through some mountain ranges.
Nice and easy travel on gravel.
Including unexpected finds in the middle of the mountains. Interesting signpost help to assure that I’m on the right track.
Continued on towards the Hardluck Mine Castle through a lot of nothing.
I almost missed it because I came from the ‘wrong’ side.
Unfortunately the access to the unique building is no longer allowed.
There are many old buildings in more or less devastated condition around the Death Valley from the times when here was a lot of mining going on. Most of them are hidden, others or very well-known and popular tourist attractions.
Beatty is an ideal stop for fuel and supplies.
Afterwards the route run through the Bare Mountain and the Armagosa Desert where I visit some big sand dunes. The deep sand made it difficult to ride.
By now I started to think about finding a place for the night to stay. After being so remote for a long time I was not expecting that there is no hidden spot to pitch my tent. So I had to continue. On the map is the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge shown so I had high hopes to find something there. The roads where in excellent condition and that allowed me to make good progress. In the Refuge are several interesting places. Because it was already fairly late in the day I only visited the Devils Hole.
Devils Hole might be a fascinating place although the height of the viewing platform doesn’t allow for an up-close and personal experience. In fact it was a bit disappointing as you can even get close to the water. All is fully fenced and very restricted. According the official information is the water filled cavern home to the rarest pupfish in the world, the Devils Hole pupfish. The water maintains a temperature of 93° (F) all year-round. Professional scuba divers have mapped the depth to 500 feet but the bottom has never been found.
Form here I ride further south and take the first secluded spot I find to setup my tent. It is in between mesquite trees with a wonderful sunset.
Today was a very long day and so I was enjoying the quiet and relaxing night.
Day 5 (31st March)
I had a small breakfast in the morning but could not wait for the sun to rise above the mountains. The first stretch to Pahrump was first a fast gravel road and then a long straight stretch of pavement.
The ride was lightened a little by the sight of balloons.
I refueled and continued along the Californian border.
On the route which has often silty spots, you can find the Cathedral Canyon. This used to be filled with all kinds of secular elements build mostly by the owner Roland Wiley over a period of more than 30 years. There was a suspension bridge across and a full light installation.
Unfortunately vandalism is an issue since he died. Sadly, now most of it is gone.
This put me in a unhappy mood and the things that I have seen on the following stretch didn’t help either.
The track is running through a remote area and both sides of it are covered with rubbish.
Mostly glass beer bottles smashed to pieces but also a lot of other stuff. Why?
An easy track brings me across Wilson Pass into the Ivanpah Valley and onto the gambling town of Prim. I knew Prim from the CABDR and didn’t waste any time there. Just outside of Prim are three towers of the solar power farm providing an interesting view. From here the route runs along the railway track. This part is no fun to ride. Many hoops, sandy spots and sometimes broken pavement.
When you look at the GPX track just before the town of Searchlight, you will see a lot of 90 degree turns. The route wants to follow the Old Highway, but a company had other plans.
The first straight section was fun but then the road is blocked. These turns are basically dictated be a fence which you need to ride along.
The destination of today is the Davis Dam next to the town of Laughlin for an early stop. To reach this I have to ride over the Christmas Tree Pass.
This is a highlight for me with fantastic landscape.
Below the Dam is a camp ground with many spots right next to the water. The place is great but as it is located next to a gambling town many of the negative side effects are visible here as well. Nevertheless I have a great relaxing time and got a good night sleep.
Day 6 (1st April)
Technically this would have been the end of this BDR as the town of Laughlin is on the border with Arizona. But the BDR team has planned the route to extend a little into the next state to include the old town of Oatman.
Leaving Laughlin granted a interesting view of the casinos on the other side of the river.
The ride itself was on a fast dirt road which was also used by many Side-by-sides and large groups of Jeeps .
This made it very dusty.
Once I reached the town I spend some time to wander around and take in the vibe.
Although it is obviously a touristic place it was still very interesting with all the old buildings, the donkeys everywhere and many old exhibits.
Well worth the visit.
That’s the end of my NVBDR ride.
From here I just made my way back to Tucson where the flight back to Europe waited for me. I hope you enjoyed this report even you had to wait a long time for it.
FINISH
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